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I recieved my TC15 kit today and I have a few questions

1. I'm assuming that the "boost" hole in back is for the crunch munch switch, could someone confirm this?

2. The master volume push pull pot doesn't seem to fit in the designated hole, does anyone have an answer to this?

3. Does the second 6 way position switch go to the speaker selection ?

4. What are the rubber rings for?

Thanks in advance for all answers.

1. If it's a head chassis, the crunch and munch switch goes between the mains plug and the speaker impedance selector switch. I "think" it's the same in a combo chassis but not positive.

2. Not sure..... I used a different MV pot. My guess - If the hole is too small, drill it out. If it's too big, center the pot in the hole and tighten it down.

3. The 6-way should be for the Contour control on the EF-86 channel. There should be a 3-way for the Impedance selector.

4. Just a guess... If they have a groove in the outside, they are grommets for the OT wire holes. If they are just O-rings, they are dampers for the EF-86 (placed over the EF-86 after it's installed to dampen vibration).

Hope that helps.

By the way....the TC-15 ROCKS!!!

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Deric®

Deric has the answers I'd have given.

One thing, on the 6-ways (they both should be 6-ways), one is used for Contour and the other is the Impedence Selector. They can be changed from a 6 to a 3-Way for the IS with the tang'ed washer as outlined in the Manual.

J.

1. I'm assuming that the "boost" hole in back is for the crunch munch switch, could someone confirm this?

On my kit (head version) there was a small, unlabeled hole on the back panel between the IEC power plug and the impedance switch, exactly where Deric describes. This is where I put my crunch/munch switch.

For the boost hole, I added a boost switch (which is not in the schematic, IIRC). In a previous thread, Stephen described using this hole for a switch to selectively lift the cathode bypass cap on the Top Boost side parallel stage. This allows a nice boost/cut for the TB side.

My version does something similar. However, due to my effects loop, I use the split cathode stage as an inverting driver to feed the eF86. As
a side effect, this boost switch now works as a boost/cut for both the EF86 side and the TB side.

I had to redesign the way that the cathode cap is lifted because I am putting this boost on a relay for footswitching boost and simply lifting one end of the cap can sometimes cause a pop. That said, its the same idea as Stephen described. I do not recall the thread, but I will bet you can find it quickly using the search.


2. The master volume push pull pot doesn't seem to fit in the designated hole, does anyone have an answer to this?

My switch had pc mount posts and not solder lugs. The shaft was also much smaller than the other larger 24mm pots used for the rest of the circuit. Not a big deal, I simply tightened the pot to the chassis and soldered to the pc mount pins following the instructions and it works a charm. When the chickenhead knobs are on, you will never know its a different pot.

That said, I really did not like the PPIMV so I ripped it out. Then, when I added my effects loop, I repurposed this hole in the chassis as a Pre-PI master/volume, effects send gain control, so that I can attenuate the level of mixed signal sent out to my effects loop if necessary.

I am in agreement with Deric and J-Rock on questions 3 and 4.

Endless possibilities with this design. Let us know how the build goes.

Tom

On the MV pot as a suggestion (and I'm assuming that the hole is too large for the pot)... If the size difference is great enough, I've been known to make a "filler" ring out of an appropriately sized piece of solid wire. Roll it into the shape similar to that of a split washer and use this wire ring to fill the gap. This helps to keep the pot centered in the hole, and also acts as a bearing/filler material for the pot's washers to keep them from collapsing into the hole while tightening. This may work on some jacks, switches and indicators as well...

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

In my kit, the hole was a bit too small. A Black&Dekker fixed it.

Oh sure, push the Easy® button...

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

We're shipping switched pots for the MV that are a smaller than the standard 3/8" holes so they are a bit loose. We're looking for a decent 1M switched pot with a 3/8" diameter. As Tom said, once the knobs are on, no problems. Previously we have sent a European switch which hasd a larger diameter which explains the differences as we cahnged from one to the other.

We are also now shipping O Ring, silicone dampers for the EF86 tube and these haven't made it to the instruction manual yet.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks for all the replies, I will definetly make good use of them.

While populating the board today I noticed something that doesn't match the layout and with my extremely limited electrical know how I am stumped.

Here is the apparent dilema,
(This is the TC15)

I seem to be missing the "top" hole for the 50p component that leads to the "cruch munch" optional switch. Is there someway to incoperate it without that hole?

If there is a design update please notify me, if no one has any idea what I'm talking about I will post pictures.

Thanks again for being incredibly helpful