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I'm definitely adding a cut control and 16 ohm outs on my Lightning build, meaning 2 more holes in the chassis (not a prob) and faceplates.

I was just going mount the plates to chassis, tape them over, drill a pilot hole through both (so the holes will line up).

Then I was going to remove the plates and then slowly drill my big hole over a wood block. Will this work without cracking? Or do I need to it another way?

PS--I got the cut control specs off of a DC30 schematic from Schematic Heaven--no reason it shouldn't work.

P.

The problem with a big drill bit, say for 3/8" and up, is the drill flutes can cause the plate to crack. Up to 1/4" you should be safe. Beyond that, for thin plastic, I recommend a step drill, or reamer. Borrow one.

I have safely used this technique even with the faceplate in place and it workd fine.

If you have to, I would, enlarge the hole from 1/4" up, in the smallest drill bit increments you have. You might even be able to use a countersink bit to do the enlargement.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I know I have a reamer somewhere in my messy workshop. I'll root around and find it.

P.

Unibits or stepdrills are great investments. Now I can't live without them. Aslo use slow speed. To high a rpm tends to melt the plastic instead of cutting it.

Good Luck.

I use special bits which are made for drilling plexi:

http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html

I would be very careful using too slow a speed on your drill, as that would create a scenario that would introduce cracking as well...too slow, and the tendancy is to rip/crack the plexi.

If you don't have a step drill bit, I *highly* recommend drilling in extremely small size increases....using a drill press and starting the drill before you touch it to the plexi...

-f

Take the faceplate off, mark the hole center and take it to an engraver shop in your town. All they have to do is punch in the coordinates and size and let the laser do the work.

It's better to use a low powered laser setting and make several passes than to use high power and burn the faceplate.

To make my custom faceplates, I just drop an empty chassis off with my engraver and I have a label maker where I just put labels where I want him to add words. I get a set up fee on the first one, but to cut new ones, he just pulls up the proper file and he can cut them for me fast.