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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:12 am 
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1) I'm not sure i understand the wiring of the PT. All heater wires, grounds wires are done but it's the black ones that confuse me. I have a Black, Black/Red, Black/Blue and Black/White. Which one goes to the switch and mains and which ones get tied off for 120V outlet?

2) this is a dumb questions but i was told there are no such thing as dumb questions. How do you get the board into the chassis with the standoffs under it? Are the nuts on the outside of the chassis or are the screws and how the hell do you get it in there it's so tight!??

thanks for your help. It's been a blast so far, can't wait to finish and fire her up!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:07 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1873

Coco has a schematic of the connections there. It identifies the colours for connections.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:19 pm 
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#2.
I mount the standoffs in the chassis first then drop the board in. If you have already soldered flying leads to your eyelet board just bend them up so they are vertical. It's a tight fit but everything fits :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:47 pm 
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noracuts wrote:
1) I'm not sure i understand the wiring of the PT. All heater wires, grounds wires are done but it's the black ones that confuse me. I have a Black, Black/Red, Black/Blue and Black/White. Which one goes to the switch and mains and which ones get tied off for 120V outlet?

2) this is a dumb questions but i was told there are no such thing as dumb questions. How do you get the board into the chassis with the standoffs under it? Are the nuts on the outside of the chassis or are the screws and how the hell do you get it in there it's so tight!??

thanks for your help. It's been a blast so far, can't wait to finish and fire her up!

Missed the second part, I use tape to hold the bolts in place on the chassis. Flip it over and put the standoff spacers in place, gently work board in place and put on washers and nuts. Don't tighten until the connections are made. It gives a little wiggle room.

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:43 pm 
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Thank you guys.
i got the board in the chassis and now have almost everything wired up.

i still dont understand the mains hookup to the pt.

can anyone be more specific? eg. hook up black from mains to bleck/red or whatever from pt.

i live in canada so a regular 120v hookup will suffice.

thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:36 pm 
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Black and black with blue stripe connect together
Black with red stripe and Black with white stripe connect
one of those two connects to hot(top of pic) and one connects to neutral(bottom of pic)
Image
The line that say 120v mains in is from the output side of the fuse with the power cord black on the input side and the bottom that says neutral hooks up to the white line from the power cord

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise


Last edited by Taz13 on Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:44 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:00 am 
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Quote:
How do you get the board into the chassis with the standoffs under it? Are the nuts on the outside of the chassis or are the screws and how the hell do you get it in there it's so tight!??


Tape is a great idea. I hold two in place and lower the board, then I do the other two and put it into place. Nut on the inside.

On the Tramp, we are trying out a new idea. We have threaded the 4 #6 holes for the standoff bolts You screw the 4 bolts in place, drop the 4 stand-offs onto the screw, drop the board on top and put the nuts on. Worked fine so far.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:21 am 
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threading the chassis would make it much simpler to drop in the board on the standoffs.

sorry to sound like an idiot, but i need you to be more specific. I have that diagram in the instructions and i don't understand them.

The green in the mains gets grounded, the black (hot) goes to the fuse and the white (neutral) gets connected Where?

The one of either the Black, Black/Red, Black/White or Black/Blue gets connected to the power switch and another to the White from the mains. But which ones and where do the others go?

sorry for asking the questions again but it's the last thing left and i want to do it right once.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:38 am 
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White(neutral) gets connected to the Black and black with blue stripe wires. put a shrink tube on the white solder and heatshrink to insulate. The black with red stripe and the black with white stripe get soldered to the fuse connection that is open. The black from the power cord attaches to the other fuse terminal.

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:08 am 
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Thank you


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:26 am 
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No problem, enjoy the amp it is phenomenal. 8)

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise


Last edited by Taz13 on Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:22 pm 
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coco wrote:
Quote:
How do you get the board into the chassis with the standoffs under it? Are the nuts on the outside of the chassis or are the screws and how the hell do you get it in there it's so tight!??


Tape is a great idea. I hold two in place and lower the board, then I do the other two and put it into place. Nut on the inside.

On the Tramp, we are trying out a new idea. We have threaded the 4 #6 holes for the standoff bolts You screw the 4 bolts in place, drop the 4 stand-offs onto the screw, drop the board on top and put the nuts on. Worked fine so far.


I've had really good luck using female to female threaded standoffs to mount my boards. You would mount the standoffs semi-permanently into the chassis with screws and lockwashers from the outside, and the board is held from the top by screws as well. This makes it very simple to remove the board if required. On the Deluxe I countersunk the holes on the board and used flathead screws to lower the high voltage to ground potential. It looks clearer in my V6 picture below...

Joe G

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