trinityamps.com

I spent a few hours dialing it in tonight........ As a reference, I swapped my 4 holer into the same cab.

The settings I prefer are really close, except that I can crank the master a lot more on the Triwatt. This gives me an entirely new experience, as most of them sound better with more gain than I can swing with the 50 watters.

When set for band volume clean, the MV is up a smidge past 12:00, whereas on the 50 watter, it would be around 9:00.

with the preamp volumes cranked, even with the master down low to non earplug levels, it gives that nice Hiwatt crunch without getting too farty.

I only played with the OD channel a little bit, but I can definitely see using it for lead boost purposes. At unity volume, it has a little more grind and punch, which will be perfect.

I've got a NOS Tesla Rosnov ECC83 in V1, NOS GE 12AX7 in V2, NOS GE 12AX7 in V3 and a Mullard ECC81 in V4. JJ 6V6s in the power section...

Congratulations!!!!

That's fantastic news. Enjoy your new Triwatt!

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

I got home from work at 0300 this morning, so I haven't had a chance to play this thing much until tonight. I put about 2 hours on it with my R9. It really does sound and feel just like my DR504 at lower volumes. I can't wait to try KT66s.....

Now I need to build the footswitch PS. I really like the OD now that I've played with it a bit. It'll probably knock the Tim off my pedal board.

Got the footswitch PS made. I tried making one from scratch using a 13 volt transformer. It worked, but the voltage after rectification ended up being 17! I made a voltage divider and was able to get it down to 13V, but then the output voltage dropped in half when the relay was closed.

I ended up using a deconstructed wall wart mounted on a piece of G10. I am using a 12V mini relay. I am going to make the relay board now.

Well, I got the relay board made up, including the LED. It all works, but I've got a ton of hum and some squealing with the OD engaged and the MV up past 3/4.

It was dead quiet, even with everything on 10 with the OD engaged before I put in the relay and PS, so it's got to be something in that circuit.


If I move the power wires from the relay board to the footswitch jack, I can somewhat control the hum and squeal. Also, if I put my hand near the switch, the hum gets a little quieter and changes pitch.

I'm too tired to mess with it tonight

It was a real challenge to do that realy in ours. In the end, it took a 5V regulated supply to the relays to get rid of the hum. Note that one side of the little PSU had to be grounded to get rid of hum.

I thougt that was posted in the resources section but maybe not.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I am off to work for 4 days... I'll ponder the issue. I might be back at square one with this thing.... Oh, but the LED works great! I used the other side of the relay to control it.

Power supply/footswitch info posted here: viewtopic.php?t=1567

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Awesome...... I am actually pretty close! I wish I didn't have to wait 4 days to mess with it!

It came together for us after we ditched the idea of using some of the 6.3V heater power, and installed a separate transformer for the relay DC supply.

And also when we discovered that the matrix board substrate we had been using was going slightly conductive... Things worked much better after we threw that stuff away.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

and that was no fun at all!!

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Damn, I used that stuff for the relay board...... I might have to remake this entire thing...... I have the air running in the garage, and I'm gonna go out and try grounding the PS, and some of the other changes based on the stuff you posted in the resources section.

The stuff we were having the problems with was a deep blue colour fibreglass matrix board. The solder flux seemed to be reacting with it somehow and making it go conductive. You could see that happen if you took resistance readings between two points on the board, before and after soldering. The regular brown material turned out to work much better.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

You can try baking the board material for a bit, especially if it's been in a basement or humid environment for a while. This happens a lot with the old vulcanized fiber boards (basically shellac-filled cardboard. It will absorb moisture in certain situations, at least until the tubes have been on for a while

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

I used the brown breadboard stuff from Radio Shack ("You have questions? How about a cell phone?"). Here in FL, it is real humid, and my workshop is in the garage, so humidity is always an issue.

I ended up spending the evening with the spousal unit last night, so I didn't even look at it!

I finally got around to working on this thing, and it was a success! I rebuilt the PS, using a 7812 regulator (I am using 12 volt relays, since that what I had around), 1000UF and 10UF caps. The regulator and filtering made all the difference.

DEAD QUIET! I couldn't crank it up at all, due to a sleeping family, but will do it tomorrow. It sounds awesome, even at low volume.......

During my troubleshooting, I damaged the pull switch, so I put a plain 1m audio pot in, and got it up and running with just the footswitch. I am not loving the pull switch anyway, and I am looking for alternatives, like a push/push or possibly a mini toggle.

Good news. I also found in the end a regulated supply was the way to go. I'd like to try regulating directly off the 6.3V tap instead of a seperate PT. I did something like that in a Cascade 18 watt amp.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

PS



Relay board



LED



In the cab



Pedal Board



Footswitch

Congratulations - you made it! And in more ways than one. Looks awesome all packaged up in the cool Hiwatt-style cab.

Now you just got to get a panel for it. That SAP front panel will confuse everyone - or maybe you like it that way. And given the delays in progress while working on your Pontiac, maybe the panel should say "GTO" instead of "GMC"

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Thanks Phil! She's a sweetie for sure. I've got some housekeepng to do inside, and I need to install the red box. Then I'll order a plate.