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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 11:29 am 
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I am a little confused with the wiring between the Power, Fuse, Power Transformer & Switch.

Also is there a polarity with the two black wires of the PT - How do I tell?Most PTs I have a black wire and a few different color wires.

Are there any clear photos that can be posted of those areas wired?

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 12:07 pm 
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The PT has no polarity or phasing on its windings. When you have different colours, they are purely there to indicate different voltage windings. The Triwatt PT only has a single 120V primary (or 230V for overseas). So you just need to wire the IEC connector, switch, and fuse in series with the PT primary's black wires.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 2:27 pm 
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I was talking with a co-worker. We were discussing if the position in the switch in the circuit matters with AC Circuits. With DC Circuits we had burn out problems on high amperage circuits.

Would puting the switch before or after the PT, be better or worse.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 4:06 pm 
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Before the PT is the power switch. AC

After the PT is the standby switch. DC

Just use a good quality switch (I like Carling) and you'll have no issues with switches failing.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:00 pm 
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Switch is a min of 10A rating. I think for safety reasons, you should have the power switch before the transformer.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 12:28 am 
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coco wrote:
Switch is a min of 10A rating. I think for safety reasons, you should have the power switch before the transformer.


Definitely before the transformer! And also fuse the hot side of the IEC.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 7:20 am 
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I believe that this is actually a UL requirement that the power be switched, fused and chassis grounded within 3" of entry...

Joe G

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 8:28 am 
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In that case 90% of all guitar amps would be in violation of UL, if the power switch had to be within 3" of the entry point, given that the entry point would normally be on the rear and the power switch on the front panel. So would a lot of other kinds of electronics equipment.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 9:05 am 
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joeyvelour wrote:
....chassis grounded within 3" of entry...Joe G


Absolutely, and ONLY mains goes to that ground, not other amp grounds or parts and lock/star washers too. We use #8 screws and lock washers.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 9:33 am 
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You're right Phil, fused and grounded, but not switched :oops:
Around here we use switched, fused and filtered entry modules for everything, but it's not a requirement.

As a side note... It's not likely that a tube amp design from the 50's or 60's would pass today's standards anyway :)

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 9:46 am 
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joeyvelour wrote:
As a side note... It's not likely that a tube amp design from the 50's or 60's would pass today's standards anyway :)
Joe G


No kidding - 2 prong plus with no grounding!!

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:04 am 
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coco wrote:
joeyvelour wrote:
As a side note... It's not likely that a tube amp design from the 50's or 60's would pass today's standards anyway :)
Joe G


No kidding - 2 prong plus with no grounding!!


Man those things must have some major hum.

Do most people that play vintage amps add a 3 prong?


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 12:11 pm 
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I'm thinking that even the repro's we build wouldn't make UL without the proper warning labels. And then there's the EMI/RFI emission requirements... Forget about it :roll:
I don't miss the old "polarity" switch days. Nothing like standing up to the mic and getting what seemed like a million volts through your lips :shock: :shock: :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 12:25 pm 
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zaphod wrote:
In that case 90% of all guitar amps would be in violation of UL, if the power switch had to be within 3" of the entry point, given that the entry point would normally be on the rear and the power switch on the front panel. So would a lot of other kinds of electronics equipment.
Speaking of guitar amps violating electronic safety stuff and what not.

Isn't using a PT bolt as a ground point using a terminal ring a big no no?


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 12:43 pm 
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It isn't typically an issue using existing bolts for ground points (it depends on the conditions and the customer requirements in my case), but if you had to I would surround the lug with either internal or external tooth lock washers on each side and get the lug's ring as close to the chassis in the hardware stack as you can... So chassis/lock/lug/lock flat/lock/nut or nyloc.

Joe G

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Last edited by joeyvelour on Thu May 07, 2009 9:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 1:27 pm 
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Code Says Not to connect anything else but the ground lug to the mains ground.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:34 pm 
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ROB_PRICE wrote:
Are there any clear photos that can be posted of those areas wired?


Does this one help at all...?

Image

The blue wire is essentially an extension of one of the PT primary's black leads.

On the Progressive switch, the Standby switch is the two lugs on the Right. The Power switch is the two lugs on the Left.

HTH

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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:50 pm 
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I see why I was going nuts. My IEC was 180 degrees in the other direction. Looks like I should trust the Triwatt Layout Drawing over all else.

Thanks:

P.S. I now have all parts needed to complete the amp. My Monster Cable Combo Speaker Cable came yesterday.

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 Post subject: 3 Prong Cord
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 1:00 pm 
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Quote:
Revv23 Wrote: Do most people that play vintage amps add a 3 prong?


Back in the early 80s I needed to do that with an Ampeg V4 I had. Lots on hum.

Loved the amp, hated the weight & the 11 tubes. Much happier with 5 or 6 tubes (cost wise), besides I thought my friend Model 1986 Marshall Bass Head sounded better.

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