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 Post subject: Acceptable diode switch?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 9:38 am 
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Need some assistance on this one :D

I'm working on one of my Magnatone M-10A's.
I got it non-working and was told that the rectifier diodes "blew" and the original owner replaced the 2A slo-blo fuse with a 10A and took out the PT. :bugeye: :roll:

I had Heyboer clone the PT from my working M-10A so that is taken care of.

The original rectifier diodes, according to the schematic, were IN1697's.

I was given some IN5408's by an "amp tech" to replace them.

Are they an acceptable replacement?? An improvement??

Thanks :P :P :P

I don't want to chance taking out the new PT------or anything else :?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:55 am 
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The 1n1697 is a 600ma 600v diode, the 1N5408 is a 3a 1kv diode. They are both going to work, with the 5408 having the specs to handle a little more current and voltage possibly giving a slightly better life. The limit to the cct is the fuse.
A diode is just a junction and the only real differences are the current and voltage limits. as well as the package shape.

:later:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:25 am 
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They both should be fine. I'd go with the HDuty version. Stick with the rated fuse too.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:04 am 
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Thanks everyone :D

I have the 1N5408's for the rebuild, the guy who looked at the amp gave them to me after he told me the original 1N1697's and the PT were blown.

I know to use the correct fuse :D :D After all, I don't want to take out the PT again.

I'm happy to hear the 1N5408's are more robust since the apparant original problem was the diodes going.

Got something to do for the rainy weekend now.

Trivia---do you know the Magnatone M series amps have a OT safety switch?
The PT and rectifier circuit are on a separate chassis mounted in the bottom of the cab with the rest of the circuit up top.

There is a red button on the chassis that gets depressed when installed in the cabinet.
When you take the chassis out of the cab, the button opens and opens the circuit to the OT and cut power to the exposed circuitry.

Interesting :wink: :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:27 am 
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I ran into a few tube amps when I was servicing them for a living(Aquiring IOU's from musicians) that had high voltage interlocks. Mostly those that were from companies like Bogan and various PA/hifi companies. It really isn't that good of idea, just one more switch to fail and in some cases also opened the cap bleeder cct leaving a nasty surprize for the tech.
Then again to keep people from playing I have been known to leave charged caps on my bench just for those who can't stop playing with my toys.

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