trinityamps.com

Hi,

Great forum and nice amps - can't wait to hear mine. It arrived today and I have about 3/4 of the board done. But I started getting a little confused so I quit. Couple questions came up that I could use some input on.

1. I used bare copper to connect the ground rail to the turret locations as noted on the layout. Is that OK. I'm thinking no issue but saw some pictures with insulated wire - any preference on that?.
2. I noticed my kit came with a boost switch and some components on the layout that connect to it. I ran into them and started to get confused which made me stop and check my work - I found a mistake - instead of using the 100ohm value resister I used the 100K that belongs somewhere else. Anyway the question about the boost is, what does it do? Should I add it or skip it? It seems like the components in blue on the layout are the boost components. Theres a 2K7 resister and a 22uf cap. They connect to a switch that connects to pin 3 on V2. Seems reasonable to add it but was curious about what it does.

3. Last question. I seem to have an extra 100K resistor. The layout notes that the connection on V2 between 1,6 and 7 should be a 100K metal/carbon film resistor. Which is it. Metal or carbon comp. I'm thinking I either ended up with a bonus 100K resister or both types are included for choice. Which should I use there?

If anyone has color gut shots of the board, pots and sockets that would be super helpful. Please let me know.

Thanks

PS - I made the mistake of buying a cab from BBQ to save a few bucks the drilled holes in the back panel don't line up. I had to drill new ones. My bad. Wish I knew it would have come pre drilled.

If you mean the connections from the copper ground rail to the turrets themselves, it doesn't make a difference as long as you don't inadvertantly ground out something. It's a matter of preference, some people use wire with stripped ends to run the connections, hence the insulation while others use scrap wires or lead trimmings from resistors/capacitors to be frugal

The boost acts like a boost pedal, the resistors go in parallel (hence lower equivelent resistance) and I believe the cap passes some highs through, theresfore a hotter brighter signal. (Someone please correct me if I got something mixed up).

I think it's a useful addition just to see how you like it.

The resistor is a matter of choice, some feel that the carbon comp adds some "mojo" and warmth to the signal, others say that the carbon comp just adds hiss and a higher noise floor and use the metal film, again a personnal toss-up decision.

Hope this helps, sorry I don't have pictures of my builds but if you search for something like "build notes" or "my build" you may (should) be able to find threads on these forums to help.

Thanks - that helps.

Think I'll do the boost - can't see why not.