trinityamps.com

Here's another thought. The (3) 470k resistors in a row near the center left of the board and the ground buss. Consider reflowing their solder joints to the turrets, some of wiring leads look like they're just resting on the turrets. Good grounding and good connections are a must. Just spitballing again. Maybe this one will stick, too.

PS The volume and tone pot wiring did look kinda wonky, I noticed you were thinking about repositioning the components. But it's working now

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Glad you got the tone control working. In the pictures it's hard to see that capacitor shorting to something it shouldn't touch, but things were pretty crowded in that area.

Good that you got the voltage to V3 up a bit. 20% down isn't too bad. It won't hurt the amp to run that way. 10 or 15% is better, though.

Yes, check those turrets on the cathode side. The connections to the 22k resistor look a bit suspect in the photo. Make sure all the connections on the ground bus are good while you're at it. A few of them towards the right side of the board ook a bit suspect, too, but it might just be the lighting and camera angle.

Thanks guys! All of my lead connections to the board are bend and inserted into the turrets and then soldered. Haven't had a chance to fiddle with the amp the last couple days but now I have some time to fiddle with it again and see if I can strengthen some connections any more than they are.
Quick question, Is it normal when you meter voltages on the V3 pins 2 and 7 (grid resistor connections, right?) that the amp/speaker hums really loud?

Yes, it's normal to hear hum when probing the grids. It's a very sensitive area.

Yes, it's normal to hear hum when probing the grids. It's a very sensitive area.

Cuberdude, just to clarify, I was pointing out where the ground wire(buss) sits on top of the turrets and the jumper wire that connects the three 470k resistors in a parallel row near the center and suggesting reflowing /adding solder to them where they seem to sit on top of the turrets to make a good electromechanical connection. Again just a thought. Because I've made enough bad/cold solder connections with eyelets and I've heard turrets are a bit more finicky. Hank S. Here is a good article in Resources viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1261

PS Hope I don't offend, but don't know your level of expertise

Edit: I meant intermetallic bond, not electromechanical.

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Thanks Hankules, no problem, you're fine haha. I've kind of been learning those things along the way for this project. I've soldered many times before but this is my first time with turrets. I've reflowed a few of those places now. I need to probably upload a couple new updated pics now.

If the Plexi is your first tube build, it's pretty darn good. Some first builds don't work at all, like the my first Tramp build viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5938 , I futzed a jumper and it took awhile (a loonnggg while) to figure it out.

Yes, post some new pics, front and back angles are good. Also curious to see the revised volume/tone control area.

Any progress on V3 voltages? Hope you get it sorted out.

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Here's a couple of newer pictures after some reflowing and the tone knob fix.
The amp works now and sounds great. The only thing is the voltage is pretty low on the V3 grid resistor area and I'm not sure why. I'm still pretty happy now though because this seems like a minor problem.

The pictures look good. Glad you got it working. Don't worry too much about the low voltage on V3. Grid voltage is hard to measure in a circuit like that and the actual value can vary quite a bit. The main thing is it sounds good!

Have fun playing it!

Do you have same voltage issues with 6v6 in use?

And I also noticed that that pin 8 on el84 is being used as a tie point . Which could be a no no with certain manufactures . Pin 1 for sure is a no no . But from this forum pin 8 is a Nono with JJs

https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=18789.

Found the data sheet for jjs pin 8 is ic

Finding dats sheets for othe manufactures of new tubes seems to be a pain as google gets more and more polluted with stuff for sale

JJ. https://www.jj-electronic.com/images/st ... f/el84.pdf


Eh. https://shop.ehx.com/catalog/addimages/el84eh.pdf


As for the new sensor tubes eh has not provided much info


https://shop.ehx.com/vacuum-tube-specifications/

Thanks for that information. I didn't know pins 1, 6, and 8 on EL84s aren't always free.

I see all the Trinity V6 layouts use pin 8 on their EL84s as a tie point for the grid resistors. The layouts for the other Trinity 18-watt amps and the TC-15 are OK. Sounds like it would be a good idea to install terminal strips and get the connections from the board to the 8k2 resistors off the tube socket. That way it wouldn't matter what brand of EL84 is used.

Or at least have a look at the EL84s currently installed and see if pin 8 is connected to anything inside the glass.

Hmm. Interesting. Yeah, I'm pretty sure 6V6 and EL84 have the same voltage issue on V3. Thanks for the tips on EL84 socket wiring. I'm actually using JJ tubes as well...
So you're proposing to detach the 8k2 resistors and affix them to pin 2 and ground?

m

Look at your EL84s and see if pin 8 is connected to anything. It would be good to do the mod but it probably won't change anything at V3. It could make the amp less noisy, though.

N