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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 5:30 pm 
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Thanks Stephen,

I have tried removing the cap, we know that allows dc to sit on the cathode appearing to drop the voltage, but that reduces too much gain from what I remember plying with the TMB combo. I have played with these values, but what I didn't know was those caps and that bleeder.

Let me play with those again, and I'll let you know what I find.

You know its not bad, I'm just a little picky on the normal channel. I don't need what it delivers dimed. I can get that on the TMB channel. The trick is to find the fine line.

OK, thanks again, I'll work on that.

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 10:16 pm 
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hey guys....I *finally* got started. This means I'll be done by january! :oops:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:12 pm 
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Board looks very nice. How did you build it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:18 pm 
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The board is the red swirl stuff from Ken @ turretboards.com...
So all I did was order a 10.5" X 2.75" board from him.

As far as drilling the layout, you'd laugh.

First I covered the whole board with painters tape.
I took your sIII layout, imported the jpeg into photoshop, cropped the picture to just the board. Then printed out the board at exactly 10.5" wide. It was a perfect fit.

I then took an eyeglass screwdriver, punched holes in the printout wherever there was to be a turret. Placed the paper on the turretboard (which was at this point, covered with blue painters tape.) Took a sharpee pen and made a mark at every turret location.

Then, brought the board over to my $1000 drilling bench (my bowflex) and freehand drilled each hole wherever there was a sharpee mark.

Peeled the tape, hammered home every turret....and viola.

-F


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 12:01 am 
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:D Good job dude! You're hired!!

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:32 am 
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Good job on the board. I did it the hard way on my JA TMB. I have two extra holes in that board...:-)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 2:07 am 
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Well, I'm giving up for the night. I should've been in bed an hour ago....the kid is going to be jumping on me at 7am to wake up.

I made all the underboard connections, added the ground bus, connected almost all the grounded turrets to ground and added whatever compenents I have in the spare-parts bag.

Image

I could probably get 80% done if I used metal film resistors, but I'm going to stick to my word on this one and use 1 watt carbon film everywhere I can...and use metal oxide's when I need something higher than 1 watt....

Which means I need to call Mouser tomorrow and bother them! 8)

Talk to you guys l8r...

-Frank


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:29 am 
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Frank,

Progress!! Good job.

How did you make that buss bar and attach it? How about a rear shot of the board. When you get some free time!

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 11:19 am 
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Ask and ye shall receive!

Image

I found attaching the bus bar very frustrating. Last time I used a bus bar, I was using eyelets. The romex wire (which I believe is 12awg solid) I use for bus wire fits right into the eyelet with a little bit of forceful convincing. The turret holes are alot smaller and dont take the 12awg romex at all.

So after thinking about this for a few minutes, I decide to mold the bus bar as I wanted. In this case, at each end, I made a bend to turn down to the bottom of the board, another turn to turn inward to the board towards the turrets and a final turn back up into the turrets.

Then I shaved the ends of the bar to a fairly fine point, using my wire cutter and a dremel.

Then, I inserted the bar and squeezed it into the turret with the pliers (slightly bent one of the turrets in the process, but it's still good to use). I sealed the deal with some solder on the underside of the board.

No question the bar is stable and holding. The bar aint going anywhere now. It's in there for good.

-Frank


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:30 pm 
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Hey Guys...

I just did a parts audit on my parts bag here. I've really got *alot* of the resistor components for this amp....but in mostly metal film and metal oxide resistors.

Does anyone *really* notice a significant difference between metal and carbon film resistors? I dot like the idea of feeling more secure about the noise...granted, I'm sure a 1-watt CF = 1/2-watt MF as far as noise goes.

Not that it's really that important, as I can can certainly go out and order the CF's.

But I'm sure this amp will sound fine with MF resistors....my other amps do....

what do you guys think?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 5:54 pm 
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Frank, I use what ever is in my parts box at the time, I have not noticed that my amps are particularly noisy. I'm just staring into the guts of a recent build and it has a mix of wire wound, metal oxide, carbon film and metal film resistors, to that matter its got a motley mix of different caps too. That build is quiet as a mouse and it's got an extra gain stage as well. If I was selling it OK I would be a bit more consistent.
Nigel


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 6:04 pm 
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That's what I'm starting to think as well...I'd rather use up what I've got here, or else it'll be an ever ending box of junk I'll never use.

Also, I'm just going to stick with metal oxied 1watters on all the values that I dont have, since I can buy those one piece at a time...

-F


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 6:19 pm 
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Just as confirmation ;-)
http://kirkby.com.au/images/mixedbag.jpg
Nigel


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 6:30 pm 
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bitsandvolts wrote:
But I'm sure this amp will sound fine with MF resistors....my other amps do....
what do you guys think?


It will be very fine, and also very quiet! Do it!

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:05 pm 
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Legin,

What amp is that? Fender flavor? orange drops I dee you have in there.

I want to try something different next. Matchless, champ, I don't know what I will do next.

I am going to try some mods on the normal channel Stephen gave me this weekend on my sIII.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:32 pm 
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bevins wrote:
I am going to try some mods on the normal channel Stephen gave me this weekend on my sIII.


Really looking forward to getting your opinion on those Normal Channel mods Bob. I have an sIII I will finish this week-end for a customer. Maybe I can do some tweaking on it.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:02 pm 
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I would assume that the Transformers from dear S2 are the best choice... I'll order them ASAP (Stephen tell me when I can email S2)... But how about the tubes?

I love EH pedals, has anyone filled this sIII with said tubes?

Any favs?

Any you would avoid?


one question I have when reading the manual (page 26)... what is a tag strip? This is likely a very easy question for you guru's to answer... a picture would be cool by me :P

Cheers
Steve

btw I bought a HP 6.1 digi camera so I can take pics. 'Cause if I'm braggin I wanna show and if I'm beggin for advice... there's a thousand words :)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:28 pm 
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A tag strip is a small piece of circuit board with a number of tinned tags mounted on it. It attaches to the chassis and you can use it as an anchor point for components, e.g. the resistors that mount directly to tube sockets.
Nigel


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:29 pm 
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bevins wrote:
Legin,

What amp is that? Fender flavor? orange drops I dee you have in there.

I want to try something different next. Matchless, champ, I don't know what I will do next.

I am going to try some mods on the normal channel Stephen gave me this weekend on my sIII.

Sent you a PM.
Nigel


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:34 pm 
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Legin wrote:
A tag strip is a small piece of circuit board with a number of tinned tags mounted on it. It attaches to the chassis and you can use it as an anchor point for components, e.g. the resistors that mount directly to tube sockets.
Nigel


Ah ha! That's what I was guessing, but I thought best to clarify - thanks Legin

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