trinityamps.com

Anybody want to check my work? Looking for input/suggestions.

The camera sucks. The solder joints look ok to me...so far.

Yep, the first resistor and cap are missing. See my previous post.
Pretty ugly. Just hope it works when I'm done.





Thanks,
Joe

Board looks correct so far Joe. I sent you some large color shots of a board that will help out. I have also posted them on the forum here ->

viewtopic.php?t=341

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks Stephen. I did get the pics.
Here is the almost completed board...still trying to find a 150ohm resistor locally.
I used 22 solid wire for the tube hookups and 22 stranded wire for the pot hookups from the board. Iused 20 stranded for the cap can and ground.

Should I use solid or stranded wire coming off the buss bar to the pots?

Thanks,
Joe

Solid core is good because you can bend it to a shape and it stays however for your purposes either would be OK.
Nigel

Nigel has a fair point. I do use stranded for the control pots and power connections though and solid everywhere else.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I ended up getting the resistor from mouser. The completed board.


bottom


still waiting on the trannies from s2, but I figured I could start the heater wiring.


If anybody sees any glaring mistakes please let me know.

Board - looks like a 100k resistotr beside the 500 pf cap. Should be 56K. Check it.

Bottom looks good.

Make sure you dont solder one of those heater wires to the ground lug of the termial strip.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

"Board - looks like a 100k resistotr beside the 500 pf cap. Should be 56K. Check it."

Thanks...corrected.

"Make sure you dont solder one of those heater wires to the ground lug of the termial strip."

I haven't soldered on that end yet, just doing the tube sockets. Which raises another question. When daisy chaining after V3 thru V1 should I run the wire thru pins 4 and 5 or can I just start from pin 4?

Example:
V3= wire soldered to pins 4 and 5.
V3 to V2= start from pin 4 of V3 to pins 4&5 of V2, Pin 4 of V2 to pins 4&5 of V1.

I'm not articulating this very well, but the idea is that pins 4&5 are tied at the previous socket.

Last question. Is there a way I can test the integrity of my solder joints on the board with a mm? I'd rather check and double check now before the whole thing is buttoned up. Heh, just want this pup to work when I power up the first time.

Thanks,
Joe

You can start from pin 4 andmove on. Make sure the colors of the wires match i.e. polarity of the wires stays the same.

Test resistance from start of heater wire at terminal strip to each pin with a MM for continuity.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks Stephen.

This applies to the power tubes as well BTW.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

The s2 trannies came in the mail yesterday so I'm ready to get back to work on this project.

As per the buliders guide I used what I think is 22AWG wire on the heaters. It seems that the kit came with more wire then I will actually need. All the wire seems to have come in either 22 or 20 gauge, solid or stranded. According to the marks on my wire stripper the 22 is the thinnest of the two types of wire. Is this OK for the heaters because the wire on the PT is pretty hefty?

I did check for continuity on all the components on the board and the heaters. Everything checks out OK. So, in theory all my solders are good. Barring any major misteps I hope to have this baby up and running in a few days.

Joe

22 has lots of spare current capacity in this application.

Good luck on the build. Did you look over the high voltage layout I posted on this forum?

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I actually downloaded it and have been studying intently.

One other question. Is it really necessary to have matching triodes on the tube for V2?

No, you can run this amp with out matched ax7s & el84s . You can spend 20% more on tubes of you want to do this, but I wouldn't.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

The soldering iron is warming up so I thought I'd ask yet another question.
On the layout there are four grounds near the PT. One from the board, one from the cap can and two from the PT. How many ground lugs should I use? The large lugs supplied with the kit have two connection holes. Do I just need two of those lugs on the PT side and one on the input ground?

It's hard to tell from various pic's I have downloaded because zooming in on lo res shots gets blurry really fast.

BTW, I won this on ebay. Even with shipping I saved a fair amount of money.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 7395995677

Thanks again,
Joe

I use three at the power supply end, and one at the preamp end. You only really need one hole per lead.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Making progress. I finished all the heater wiring, installed the trannies and started to wire up the PT.

Can I tie the red/yellow and green/yellow grounds from the PT together and solder on the same ground point?

I'll try and post some pics tonight. My connection is a bit flakey right now so it might be tomorrow.

Joe

Tie them together at the lugs at the Power ground point.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Here's a couple of pic's of the power section wiring. Tonight I'll wire up the pots.

Joe