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 Post subject: TMB 6V6 - First Build
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 8:44 pm 
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I just got my new kit today and this will be my first build. I'm building a head cabinet myself and I have a question that I've always wondered about but never had a reason to ask :D

I have a few tube amps myself (DSL 100, Chinese AC30, 5150 Combo, Orange Tiny Terror, etc) and each of these has some sort of vent in the top of the head. I see 18 watt Marshall clone heads and some mass produced heads that have no top vent, only the rear screen vent.

Is there any major advantage to putting a top vent in a TMB 6V6 head cab? Will this regulate the internal temperature any more than just the rear vent or is this basically just a waste of time on a head?

Keith


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Well, IMO, it's never a waste of time to keep things cool, but I haven't noticed any overheating on the v6 in the standard head with no vent.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:27 am 
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O/k, maybe I'll add some holes at the top. It can't hurt.

I sat down late last night and looked over the kit. I have a couple of questions before I get into the details (you'll have to excuse me if the answers to my questions are embedded in the details of the "Build Guide" since I haven't had a chance to read it fully...yet!").

1. I guess the TMB v6 has no layout. Guess I was hoping for an "idiot-proof" set of instructions for my first build :shock: I get the fact that I need to build a regular TMB board and then add the v6 parts. However, where do the v6 parts go? If I do a comparison of the sIII vs. the sIII v6 and note the placement of the "extra parts", is it safe to assume these parts go to the same locations in the TMB? Or, is there somewhere else where I can get an indication as to where to install the v6 parts on the TMB?

2. The specs on the v6 say that the "boost" and "6V6 tube" feature are footswitchable. However, the kit seems to have two mini-toggle switches for each of these options, so I suspect the "footswitch" capability is not what's intended for the kit in its current form? If not, how much trouble is it to wire the head to have footswitch capability for both of these options?

3. It appears that the TMB v6 is intended to have a "reverse boost" feature (taking the TMB into sIII territory. However, is it possible to boost the TMB v6 even more? I guess what I'm asking is "Is there a way to have addional boost of the TMB and not have the "boost" feature as a "reverse boost"?

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:29 am 
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Regarding Venting: viewtopic.php?t=110


The v6 was orignally a sIII with the 6V6. I can draw up a TMB version for you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:33 am 
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Stephen

Don't create the TMB drawing if you don't feel you need it. Let me try to figure it out, I'm sure it's not rocket science :wink:

Maybe tonight I will lay out all of the parts and look at where the v6 stuff should go logically.

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:25 pm 
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Hi guys,
Umm, Stephen I have the TMB layout and schematic. So I definately got this from you and your website. Gots to be up there somewhere or I wouldn't have it.. :D Opps wait, I don't have a v6, duh sorry
Jac


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:16 pm 
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TMB v6 Layout Note: No Boost Switch

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:19 am 
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Thanks Stephen


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:10 am 
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Right clck the image to download it to print up to 11X 17.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:37 am 
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Already done and printed in glorious colour :D

(With fine laser printers provided by work, of course :wink: )

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:20 pm 
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Hey Stephen, I haven't blown myself up or anything :)

With a couple of small kids and travelling for work (I just got back from 8 days in Grand Cayman...tough :D ) the build is going slow, as I expected.

However, I finished soldering up the board on Saturday night and suspect I will order the trannies this week.

The 18 watt trannies are US$150 (including shipping), correct?

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:38 pm 
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Fortis wrote:
The 18 watt trannies are US$150 (including shipping), correct? Keith


Yes. More details in the want ads.

Dont see any problem with being in the Cayman Islands. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:48 pm 
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I see a BIG problem with being in the Cayman Islands. he did NOT take me!!! LOL!!!! :lol:


Bill

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 12:14 pm 
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Hey folks. Keith has been real busy with life, so I offered to complete his build for him. He had the board mostly completed (except for a couple of leads that you can see mounted to the top of the board in the pic - output tube power ground & board power). Here's the completed result...

Image

You may note that this is one of the early V6 layouts. I stuck with that version simply because I would have needed to get some extra parts for the newer layout.

You may also note that I didn't use the single-conductor shielded wire Stephen provides for the inputs. I don't like using that wire for dual input jacks - it's very difficult & untidy (in my opinion) for wiring the grounds. I also don't like the relatively low melting point of the inner sleeve. I have a bunch of 2-conductor shielded cable that I got from Metroamp.com that's much easier to work with.

And I did one other break from convention with where I mounted the tag strip for the sIII channel inputs. It was just too tight to mount it on the socket bolt (and a nightmare to solder in there with my big clumsy fingers) to I drilled an extra hole in the side of the chassis & mounted it there instead.

Just have to tidy the lead dress a touch & we're done I think. Tested it today with some el84's I have lying around & it seems to be working fine.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Looks fine. Another Trinity amp on the Rock!!

This looks like a TMB v6.

The resistor leads on the power tube cathodes look pretty close to the mounting bolts. Check 'em.

I've seen a cool idea to deal with the tag strip mounting that I might try soon.

As for the coax, that's Belden 1266A but the shield is a foil with a ground lead. How do you find soldering the shield to ground?

Ww've steered away from it becasue of the shiled but it is lower cost than the single stuff we use.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 5:00 pm 
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Yup...It's a TMB v6.

Thanks to Darrin (Emohawk) for completing the build.

Now time for a cab!

BTW...I spend some time over at the Dr Z forum....so I figured I'd give the amp a little face time over that way :D That can't hurt!!!!!

http://drzamplifiers.proboards41.com/in ... read=16306

I may order another kit. I'll have to wait to see what time Emohawk has open in his calendar :lol:

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Fortis wrote:
I may order another kit. I'll have to wait to see what time Emohawk has open in his calendar :lol:

Keith


Dude - you keep ordering 'em, I'll keep building 'em! Feeds the habit without draining my bank account!!!

May I recommend a TC-15? :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:54 pm 
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coco wrote:
The resistor leads on the power tube cathodes look pretty close to the mounting bolts. Check 'em.

The pic makes them look closer than they are, but I had the same thought. I've got them raised off the board now, but I should probably shorten them. Give me something to do while waiting for Keith's tubes to arrive. :)

coco wrote:
I've seen a cool idea to deal with the tag strip mounting that I might try soon.

I had to do something...there was no way I was going to be able to work in that tight corner without out a few more burn scars. I even left the TMB inputs to last so I wouldn't be encumbered wiring up V1.

coco wrote:
As for the coax, that's Belden 1266A but the shield is a foil with a ground lead. How do you find soldering the shield to ground? Ww've steered away from it becasue of the shiled but it is lower cost than the single stuff we use.

It's more personal preference than anything. No problem soldering the shield to ground - it's actually easier to work with as it's less bulky. If one really wanted to be sure you could add a touch of solder at the contact point between the ground wire & shield but it's probably not necessary. This is the 3rd build I've done with it and I've had no noise issues.

There's nothing wrong with the single-conductor stuff, but I always fear that I'll create a ground short by overheating & melting the inner sleeve, especially working in tight spots.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:58 pm 
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Emohawk wrote:
Fortis wrote:
I may order another kit. I'll have to wait to see what time Emohawk has open in his calendar :lol:

Keith


Dude - you keep ordering 'em, I'll keep building 'em! Feeds the habit without draining my bank account!!!

May I recommend a TC-15? :)


Be careful what you wish for!!!!!!!

Keith


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:08 pm 
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Fortis wrote:
Emohawk wrote:
Fortis wrote:
I may order another kit. I'll have to wait to see what time Emohawk has open in his calendar :lol:

Keith


Dude - you keep ordering 'em, I'll keep building 'em! Feeds the habit without draining my bank account!!!

May I recommend a TC-15? :)


Be careful what you wish for!!!!!!!

Keith


(hehe) Next time order 2 - I'll take one in payment for doing the work!!! :D


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