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 Post subject: TC-15 Questions
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:39 pm 
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I'm gearing up for a TC-15 build. I'm waiting for an e-mail reply to one last question before I order a chassis, transformer set and possibly a board.

The rest of the parts I plan on sourcing myself - I have most of them lying around allready. So far I have 2 questions:
1 - What's the wattage rating on the screen resistors? The schematic says 1W. Is that correct or should they be larger?
2 - What's the minimum voltage rating for the caps on the Tone Contour switch?

Thanks,
Deric


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:08 pm 
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Hi, let's see for:
1. We used 1/2 watt 100 ohm for the screen resistor
2. Coco uses the Mallory type polypropylene 630 v caps and a single silver mica 500v
later


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:33 pm 
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Thanks 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:27 pm 
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Recommend you use 2 watt 100 ohm for the EL84 screen resistors. Same as what we use.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:48 pm 
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oops, sorry :oops: Looking at wrong ones. I thought since he said 1 watt he was looking at the 100 ohm. Aren't those then 3 watt (and 5 of them) :?: Just so I get it straight in my head again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:00 pm 
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Stephen,

Thanks for the heads up! I sent an e-mail with a question about the boards. As soon as I hear back I'll be ordering a chassis, transformer set and possibly a board too.

Thanks,
Deric

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:14 pm 
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Chassis and trannies are ordered! Thanks Stephen!

Can anyone recommend a suitable part for the "Tone Contour" switch? Preferrably available from Mouser or AES.

Thanks 8)

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 Post subject: rotary switch
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:04 pm 
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I'm not sure if it is exactly the same 12-pin switch, and I've never seen one myself, but Ken Watts at www.turretboards.com has a multi-position rotary switch that should work.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:56 pm 
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Should the switch be " Break before Make" or "Make before Break'?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:43 pm 
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We use the shorting kind, 6-position BTW. Lorlin sealed from mouser

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:31 pm 
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Stephen,

Are you shock mounting the EF86 socket on production builds?

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:06 am 
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Not in the heads. We haven't built a combo version yet but I know some guys have shock mounted in a combo and that is prudent. I would do that and use a good EF86.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:07 pm 
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Since I'm doing a head I won't worry about it! 8)

Thanks for the reply!

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 Post subject: shock mount EF86
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 3:14 pm 
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Just for the record, Dan Tonjes built a TC15 combo (cab made by Stephen, Dan put the chassis together) without shock mounting the EF86, and said he had not thus far encountered any vibration problems.

But still a good thing to do, it seems to me, while you have the choice. And if Master Stephen advises it, undoubtedly a good idea. Rewiring and reconfiguring the chassis mount would be a hassle after the chassis is already built.

I plan to try a 9-pin shock mount socket supplied by BBQ when I build my TC15 combo, and will post how that turns out.

Jim


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 Post subject: Re: shock mount EF86
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:58 pm 
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HarmonyoftheSpheres wrote:
Master Stephen


:rol


Advise for a combo. The heads have not shown any microphonic issues yet with the tubes we've used.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Master Stephen :lol: ,

Transformers showed up thursday - that was quick! Got the board made and stuffed. Just waiting on the chassis.

I may need to order some hardware. I believe I read that the mounting holes for the tubes are threaded - what size are they? Any other holes that are pre-tapped to a specific size?

Thanks! 8)

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 11:58 pm 
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Looks very nice. The threaded holes are 4-40. Get them 3/8" long. You'll probably need 3 terminal strips too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:14 pm 
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Cool. I have plenty of 4-40 screws and terminal strips. 8)

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:23 am 
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Chassis showed up friday 8) Started working on it today. Things are moving along well but I have a couple of questions:

Crunch and Munch switch - how heavy duty does it need to be? I have a mini-toggle rated at 2A/250VAC, 5A/120VAC. Will this work or do I need something beefier?

For now, I've installed the OT like the posted layout but backwards from the "Production Build" pics. I'm thinking it would be nice to put the Crunch and Munch switch between the speaker jacks and the impedance selector. If I like the amp as much as I think I'm going to, I may want to add a VVR and the stock Crunch and Munch switch hole would be a great place to put it.

Image

Is this a bad idea?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:49 am 
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Build looks nice. You'll be OK with that switch. There's not that much current to worry about there.

The OT is installed just fine. That's the same as our layout shows.

Good idea to plan for the VRM. viewtopic.php?t=1176

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