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Hi all,

First let me say thanks to every one who post's here and sharing the knowledge and experience. Without reading this forum, I doubt I would have ever attempted building an amp.

I took some pictures today to show my progress and would welcome any and all suggestions. I also have a couple of questions that I'm sure I've seen answered on post's but can't seem to find now

First the pictures.

Board Back:

_________________
Mark

Hmmmmm..... already a problem, can't seem to post the pictures......

_________________
Mark

Well, while I'm working on getting the pictures to post, how about a couple of noob questions.

1. Pre-cutting the flying leads, what would be a safe length?
2. Soldering the turret lugs, how do you get a nice dome without holding the iron on more than 2 to 3 seconds?

Thanks,
Mark

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Mark

Board Back:

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Mark

Full Board:

As luck would have it, I was waiting on the 01uf cap to arrive and it just came after I took this picture.....

Question: what's the best way to get a nice solder flow on the lugs without holding holding the iron on for more than a couple of seconds?



PRE:


PWR: and missing 01uf

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Mark

The V6/Plexi Boost

Not really sure if this is correct, the V6 calls for the 22uf while the Plexi doesn't, anyone?

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Mark

A couple more pictures of the sockets and pots

Normal and Inputs:



VGT Pot:



V1 and Tag:



6V6 Socket:

_________________
Mark

Plexi has 'clean' boost. So cap was not used. Use one if you want for more of a impact boost.



8 in is safe on control side, about 6 on tube side, but there is lots of wire so dont go short. Longest are to Mid & Treb pots.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Heh Coco! Never noticed before but do you always use all CC resistors in the signal chain??
Stew

Yes, in most cases, built same as originals. It's probably quieter with CFilm, but at playing volume, who really can hear it?

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Mark, I can help out with soldering questions if you tell me or take a quick picture of what sort of soldering iron, tip, solder, and whatever sort of tip cleaner (sponge or brass bowl typically) that you're using. These would be the determining factors as to the quality of the final joint. I was hoping to have tutorials posted by now with pics from my own build which will be a V6R (for rack mount). Coming soon...

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Remember this is in the resource section:

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

Which is great for starting soldering.
Not cutting you out joey, it's just a great read for the beginner.

So you + that fact sheet = a great way to learn to solder
What a great forum
I love these emoticons rol
Also much easier on the eyes, for us old guys, then 18watt.

Now see I have a question for you. Sponge or brass bowl? What's a brass bowl? Is it better?
Later

Jac/all, take a look here:

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/pr ... spx?id=113

It is essentially an ashtray filled with spun brass (brass bowl) from probably a machine shop's lathe scrap barrel. These are superior to those filthy wet sponge we've all been using sine the war! Cleans really well and doesn't cool the tip.

BTW: I don't mind sharing the solder teaching spotlight. Whatever it takes to get the new guys up and running, and keeping them alive during this process is a good thing as well!

Joe G

_________________
Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Joe, I'm using RS 60/40 .032dia Solder, a 30watt Iron, though I l aso have a 40 watt and a 100 Weller and sponge.

Here is my hi-tech setup:

_________________
Mark

Joey
Very nice
See, ask and learn. I love learning
I'll bet you I can get a brass sponge somewhere around here. Grocery; hardware. I know I've seen them. Just have to figure out an aluminum bowl I wonder if a copper sponge would work also
Never thought of this snoozing on the job.
I'm telling you, has to be a way to put that together for 2 bucks

progfan2:
Looking at your 3 iron's. I'll say the 1 on the left is the 100 Weller: Use this for soldering to the chassis (I don't know if it'll work, but you can give it a try).
The iron in the middle is the 30 watt: use this for soldering a pc board.
The last iron would be the 40: I would suggest this for the hand-wired board and for pc boards. That iron should work well enough.
What do you think Joey?
I use a ratshack electronic soldering iron. I usually set the iron at 650 or 700 degrees. I replace the tips when needed. But has a sponge. Can't wait to try that sponge.
So progfan2 IMHO there you go.
Funny, I've forgotten so much, but I've been soldering since 10 years old.
I love the smell.
I guess it's impossible to lose that memory
Have a great day!

by the way, progfan2

Your lead dress is really well done.
Nice job.
Later

A little more progress on the leads and another question,

any thoughts on using the twisted wire running to pin 6 on the 6v6 sockets???

Back:



Top:

_________________
Mark

Doesnt hurt and keeps it tidy.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Sorry for the delay getting back...
Think of a soldering iron's wattage as it's horsepower and the temperature control is the speed limit. You have power there if you need it, but for now you're on cruise control doing 65 (iron on the stand idle). Now you hit a steep hill (three wires on a turret terminal). To maintain 65mph the engine is called upon for more power. With the 100 watt iron with the massive tip, no problem maintaining the tips temperature for the duration of the soldering operation. For the 30 watt iron (or any iron) with the little pencil tip... not going to make it. The tip gets the life sucked out of it by the mass of the turret and for about an inch up each component or wire. The key to that 3-4 second bright shiny solder joint you are looking for is a temperature controlled tip capable of maintaining about 700 degrees, +/- 20 or 30 degrees or so. Doesn't matter, most solder used for our purposes melts at around 400 degrees or slightly less. Generally you want a short conical or small screwdriver shaped tip for the fastest transfer of heat from the iron's heating element to the joint, and enough mass in the tip to maintain the temperature for the duration of the soldering operation, usually several seconds or more should be possible if the iron and tip are well designed.

Also very important is proper wetting or tinning of the tip to help aid in this heat transfer from the tip to the joint, similar to the function of cooking spray in your frying pan. Keep the tip clean (not sanded, filed or scrapped down to the bare metal) but wiped off with a damp sponge or brass bowl and cleanly tinned. Coat the tip with a big blob of solder when the iron will be at rest on it's stand for long periods or shut off. I can't emphasize this point enough. If the tip isn't clean, the solder won't flow.

If you can't get these types of solder joints (i.e.turrets, pierced terminals, solder lugs, PCB components, etc.) to flow in a few seconds, it's time to take a look at other factors, like contamination or oxidation of the component leads or terminals. WE ARE THE BIGGEST ENEMY OF SOLDER JOINTS!!! Hand oils, hand cream, sweat... These all PREVENT solder from flowing. If you work with NOS parts, you already know what happens to component leads after sitting in an army warehouse for 50 years. The lead's plating oxidizes, also preventing solder flow. It only takes a few seconds with a piece of Scotchbright™ to clean the leads back to the shiny plated metal, but not sanded down to the copper. Wipe the leads clean with some iso-alcohol and solder away.

It is required for my military contracts that all wires be tinned and preformed prior to soldering, certainly bare copper wire (as in those grounding buss bars used on the tag board) and any stranded wires, mostly to hold the strands together for forming. Pre-tinning will certainly aid in solder flow, although the school of thought on wether or not pre-tinning is a good thing for the solder joint is changing. I can get into the physics of a solder joint if anyone really likes a good read ZZZzzz!

To get back to the original question of which iron to use, I would say if it functions as described above... it has a known and controlled temperature of around 700 degrees F, it provides plenty of heat to last throughout the duration of the solder joint or even consecutive joints, a properly sized, shiny clean and well tinned tip... you're in! I should also mention that "retouching" a solder joint is a very bad thing. More physics here, but basically you will get degradation of the joint with each subsequent reflowing operation. Avoid returning to a joint to "touch up". If the solder flowed and it's to spec, you're done. You'll get better with practice! If you have to rework a joint, use some Soder-wick™ and a little liquid flux (that matches the flux in the solder that you're using) to remove as much of the old solder as possible, then reflow the joint. Enough said for tonight!

Joe G

_________________
Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...