trinityamps.com

And I thought I wrote alot, I'm back in college again (just didn't have to pay the exorbitant fees) rol
This will take a couple of minutes to digest. Again, learning is what it's all about.
Thanks

As the man said, "There's no such thing as too much information".
Too late for reading now Jac, go play! I have a half-hour before my daughter comes home from babysitting, wife and son went to bed... Where's that Strat???

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Joey, Jac and Coco thanks for your input and suggestions. Well that it for today, tomorrow on to the transformers.

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Mark

Yea, I've got Steely Dan (Bodahisattva) on the computer.
Time to turn it up
Goodnight all

Hi Coco,

Quick question on the mains wiring, and the VRM Installion Layout. Is black main neutral attached to the fuse? Or just direct from main to neon indicator?

Thanks,
Mark

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Mark

Black is attached to Neutral direct to indicator.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks Coco, that what I thought, but better safe then sorry

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Mark

And here is the PT and OT, next up VRM:

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Mark

Since you have to drill a hole for the VRM, you could relocate the ground point to the area between the cap and transnformer.

IMO, I would get the amp working first and then hook up the VRM.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Coco,

Could I use a longer bolt/screw on the ground, and suspend the VRM module above the ground a bit like the turret?

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Mark

You need to get the VRM module (the chip with the shiny side) in contaact with the chassis to use the chassis as a heat sink or the chip will overheat.

If you can get hold of some thermal conductive grease and put a thin layer between the chassis and the mica and then betwen the mica and the chip it would be better.

Hope this helps

I agree Mark. I would hard mount the VRM to the chassis directly as jcny suggested. Most importantly for the heat transfer, but also for the physical support. That's a bit of mass to cantilever off of a 4/40 screw. It could potentially spin loose if the amp were knocked the wrong way...

Joe G

_________________
Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

for what both said. Have to keep the contact. The chassis makes such a great heatsink.
Joey, that's not Mark, that's jcny

progfan2, that is one BIG chassis , you've got room for another amp in there. rol

Whoops! I thought Mark was up there asking the question. Not so ♯ today!

Joe G

_________________
Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Thanks guy's, I was missing the heat sink part. And as Coco suggested, I will finish the base build first and add the VRM after everything has been tested.

-Mark

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Mark

ONE note - use Thermally Conductive heatsnik grease be sure it's not also Electrically Conductive stuff!! and MUST use the mica washer.

jcny didnt use any grease, but the mica washer.

Get it going first - good plan!!

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps