trinityamps.com

Howdy,
My first post and first Trinity build. I'm putting together a TC15 for a friend and convinced him that he needs VVR because I have it in all my amps and can't live without it.

In my DC30, I just yanked out the MV and used that faceplate hole for my VVR control. It works great and I am assuming that that's what I would want to do here too. I thought the tone was so lacking whenever using the MV, so I felt there was no need for it.
So, I guess the question is, "Is this also the case with the TC15?" Do you guys yank your MV for the VVR? Or do you keep your mv and use the standby switch slot?
Do you find it sort of annoying that the cut control cap is not installed on the board? I can deal, I just have to whine about it a little first...I thought I had some extra eyelets around somewhere...

I know people pass on the MV, that's why you can disengage it. I'd say try the VRM and if you like it better, do it. When faced with this, we tend to replace the standby with the VRM pot and put in a 3 way progressive power switch like in the TRIWATT i.e. OFF - STANDBY - ON.

But the VRM is kind of like a MV, so putting it in that hole may be fine, logically too.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Right, thanks.
In the end I decided we would yank the MV and the amp will just look stock with appropriate labelling.

Often the VVR is installed after the Standby switch, but the first filter cap and bleeder resister are usually before the standby.

Does anyone know if it would be better to install right after the Standby, or should I go a little further to between the two positives of the cap can?

I'm leaning towards making it between the two leads of the cap can...

UPDATE:
I've been doing some reading and remember now that it is pretty important to have some of that filtering after the rectifier before going into the VVR, otherwise people always run into hum issues.... so after the first cap it is:
Standby -> first lead of the 32uf -> VVR -> OT HV AND cement 1k5 resister to second lead of cap can

Check the Resource section, VRM posting for the information.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1176&p=19541#p19541

We have done it this way very sucessfully with no noise using our VRM. If you use ther VVR design, you may see more voltage drop than ours, but they are basically the same design. Ours only drops a few volts whereas the VVR as I have measured, can drop 20V or more. The VVR design may have changed since we tried it.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks for the link. That is handy.

Unfortunately, I already wired it up my other way, like this (after the first filter cap):

The cap can tab that is sort of hidden receives from the standby switch and sends to the VVR B+ in. You can pretty much see the rest (1k5 Xicon comes from VVR B+ out and the OT HV wires is connected there too)
Do you see any dangers in this? It's just less tidy from what I would guess...

I dont really see a problem, try it and let us know how it goes.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

It works fine like this. No noise issues at all. Works smoothly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBBsGRUj0Fk