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Hello,

I've soldered most of my wires and components and am not sure I'm getting a good joint. In the past when I've soldered pcb boards i get a smooth shinny joint. With the eyelet board it seems that it is shinny at first then as it cools it oxidizes a bit and the finish dulls a little. I've purchased a new soldering iron (Weller WES51) and set at various temperatures, reflowing the joints, and adding additional rosen flux to try and get a better looking joint. So I've come to the conclusion maybe this what a joint looks like on an eyelet board. Any suggestions for improvement or do you all think the joints pictured, while not exactly going to win any awards, are "ok". I'm using Radio Shack 60/40 solder for electronics with a rosen core and the solder temp around 700 to 750.

Hard to really tell from the pictures. The solder with flux in it should be enough. No additional flux necessary. If the solder is flowing nicely when hot, then it should be OK when it cools.
60/40 with flux in core at 700 degrees works fine for me.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

My camera doesn't do close ups to good. The solder is flowing well and I'm heating the joint first then melting the solder so it flows very well into the eyelet. I'm probably fine. I'll try and take better pictures for a reference for myself and others. I couldn't find any good pictures on the web of “good” solder joints with an eyelet board. Lots of how to descriptions but I'm the picture guy. I need a visual reference to draw a conclusion. I figure if anything others can benefit from my sophomoric questions down the road. Thanks for your help.

Been there done that
It's fine, if you don't trust it run an continuity test with your DMM
But you'll find that's it's fine.
All I can think is that it's the actual board!!!!
Remember temp; elevation; area; temp of year; time of year all have help with your soldering.
Drove me bonkers for years (I love him )
Could be solder; I've had what does, what doesn't!!!
It is not a cold solder joint.
If you think it's a broken joint , the easiest way to test is to physically move the wires, if they move it's not soldered!!!
And with practice you can easily tell the difference.
Everything takes time
Remeber , watch out for the power section!!!!!
Get the power out of them caps 1st; before you mess with them
LJ

Cool! Thanks for the vote of confidence. I decided I was being to much of a perfectionist. They arn't perfect but seem solid and my technique (heating the joint quickly then touching the solder to the joint) is correct from what I've read. Fantastic project though. Having a blast and find building it a great stress reliever. May have to do a 18W after the TC. I've had to take a little break from it for a few weeks but am ready to start wiring up the power section next.