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My kit arrived over a week ago, and believe it or not, between being sick and being too busy with work, I didn't even open it until today. Looks sweet! I plan on building over the holiday break, so it's time to order tubes.

I just want to know what CURRENT PRODUCTION tubes people would recommend for various positions in the amp. Heck, if we are talking just one kind of 12AX7 and one kind of EL84, or maybe a different brand 6V6, no problem. But if people recommend something differet for, for instance, V1 and V2, then I'd like to hear that too.

I don't want to doink around with hunting the 'net for NOS gems. I'd like to just start out with some readily available tubes that I can use as the first set and "standard set" for this amp.

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If you order from somewhere like tube depot that does testing you could get balanced triodes for V3, low noise for V1, matched el84, and matched 6v6. I didn't do a 6v6 version so I ordered the matched JJ el84 and a balanced triode JJ for V3. I just used whatever I had around for v1 and v2.

Tube Depot sells all sorts of tubes from Tung-Sol, Sovtek, Mullard, JJ, etc.

I'm looking for any recommendations for what people like to use in the various positions. (e.g. Are JJ EL84 recommended or T-S?)

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My slll I use tung-sol for the i/p 12ax7
EH for the el84

Any amp I have that uses 6v6 gets fed tung-sol for new tubes

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise

I like the Tung-sol for the i/p 12ax7 or the Mullard RI. Still use the JJ at EL84

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

What is "i/p"?

Input maybe?...

I figured phase inverter would be PI...

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I think that would make for a pretty bright sounding 18W. The "TS" 12AX7s and EH EL84s are both on the bright side. I prefer JJ EL84s, and New Sensor's fake "Mullard" 12AX7s in the preamp. I've also heard good things about their "Mullard" EL84s, but not had the chance to try them for myself yet. Ultimately I prefer NOS tubes, but we can't mention them in this thread.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Interesting.

From another thread (page 2 or so by now), there was a discussion about using the T-S 12AX7. Some said they were too bright and clean, but Coco actually recommended them for V2 in the sIII amps:
"It leaves the normal channel alone and crunchy (in the sIII, normal is the 18 watt trem voice);
The sIII TMB channel is cleaner of most TMBs to start with; and
It would have a clean/brighten effect on the sIII channel only."

I guess new Mullards in V1 and V3, a Tung-Sol in V2, JJ El84s and some sort of 6V6 (Tung-Sol?) may be a nice start. Thoughts?

By the way, what is "i/p"?

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Also, just for curiosity, if one purchases a pre-built sIII v6 from Trinity, what sort of tubes will it have?

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Yep sure is and I kinda like it bright. It works well with my normal pick up and speaker choices. Also works well to compensate for the high frequency roll off of my hearing do to industrial noise and loud music.
Just remembered I built mine as a Plexi.

i/p=input o/p = output
and I use Tung-sol in v1 v2 v3 positions. Its a personal preference.

_________________
Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise

Awesome. Thanks for explaining. Input is such a short word, that I didn't really ever abbreviate it. Of course, I work in plastics and medical devices, not electronics!



Food for thought. As soon as I iron down the type of tube questions (as well as which ones Trinity themselves use), I'll be curious as to recommendations regarding any particular testing or characteristics for the various positions:
- matched triodes in V3?
- higher/lower gain vs. low noise in V1 and V2?
- I assume you MUST go with matched pair power tubes. That's a no-brainer.

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There are two sides to matching tubes. Do some reading on the net.

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise

Not really sure what the purpose of your statement was there.

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In my opinion (an many others I'm sure) spending money and or time on a "matched" triode for V3 (phase inverter) is a waste of time/money.
A matched pair of o/p tubes is a different matter. Probably not a bad idea.
Stew

Thanks. That's the sort of stuff I was wondering. I figured that I would need a matched pair of output tubes, but I just wasn't sure about V3 after reading this board.

For V3, I'll just go with a plain Jane 12AX7, no special noise, gain or matching requirements.

For V1 and V2, I'm still curious to know:
1) what Trinity uses in amps they build
2) if there are any concerns with regard to gain or noise for either or both positions

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Typically use JJ, Tung Sol pre amp with unmatched output tubes. If I want bright, I got with the Tung Sol. Was actually considering a permanent change to TS.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

1 - That's a total waste of time, unless you also use matched caps, resistors, tubes and of course a perfectly symmetrical OT (which are pretty hard to make) - and we're talking purely about hi-fi amps. Having everything matched helps cancel even order harmonics generated within the PI and power stage.

2 - that depends on your own personal tastes. Do you like gain, or not? Do you hate having background hiss, or are you OK with it? Your choice. I will again say that of current production 12AX7s, IMO nothing beats the sweet tones of New Sensor/Sovtek's fake "Mullard" RI ladderplate 12AX7s, used in any position. They're also pretty good on the noise front (I really hate hiss). However, they're not quite as strong in the mids as real NOS Mullards.


3 - I'm afraid that's only a no-brainer in hi-fi amps. In guitar amps, you get warmer tones with richer harmonic complexity if you use non-matched tubes. Just buy tested tubes of the same brand and production period from reputable sellers, who burn-in test the tubes before they sell them. If this concept comes as a surprise to you, not only is it backed up by good solid electronics engineering theory, I have had this personally confirmed by guys who used to work in some of the great vintage amp companies of the past. They say that they just used to plug in the next pair or quad of tubes from the box, just as they were, and then fire up the amp for testing before shipment. As Coco just mentioned, Trinity Amps follows the same practice be default (you can still order matched tubes if you *really* want them), and we have plenty of rave reviews from customers who's amps have these unmatched tube pairs installed.

I've also A/B tested closely matched pairs vs non-matched myself, and found more warmth in the non-matched ones, while the closely-matched ones were somewhat sterile by comparison. After that, I decided not to ever waste another cent again on getting matched tubes. Now I'm not going to advocate being silly over this. If the tubes are a real long way out, then you may get poor distortion tone, increased hum or even one of the pair red-plating. But this is a real extreme situation, which your ears will detect.


HTH

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Sorry, the more I look at that first sentence, the more confused I get. I'm having a hard time deciphering the grammar! JJ and Tung Sol for preamp? JJ for power amp, then Tung Sol pre amp? Unmatched output tubes, but whose, JJ or Tung Sol?

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Thanks! Clear as a bell.



Thanks again. I hate hiss too. I figure the amp itself will have enough gain on tap that I don't need to do anything special to make it "gainier". Avoiding annoying hiss between notes - particularly for recording - would be nice!

I checked Tube Depot, and thankfully, there seems to be just one version of new Mullard 12AX7 - or at least that's the one they sell! They sell four different versions of JJ 12AX7 tubes (normal or "high performance", crossed with normal or Gold Pin).



Got it, thanks!

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Bumping because I'm still curious.

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