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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:45 pm 
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Here are the mods I have done.

V1a coupling cap .0022uF
V1a mix resistor/cap 470K/330pF
V1b coupling cap .0047uF
VR1 bright cap 550pF
V1b bypass cap 3.3uF
V1b mix resistor 470K
VR3 bright cap 550pF
V2a bypass cap on boost .68uF 160V
V2b tail resistor 100K
Tone stack 250pF/33K
Negative feedback 47K off 8 ohm tap
Presence 5K/.1uF
PI 100pF across plates
PA grid leaks 220K
PA cathode cap 50uF

Rectifier switch
Bias switch
NFB switch
Cascade switch
Bright switch

http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... Layout.jpg
http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... ematic.jpg
(my changes are in red)

I have been having problems with the VRM on the diode rectifier so I have not been using it. But to be honest I did not really notice a big difference in the feel (i.e. tightness) with the diodes. This amp is pretty tight even with the EZ81.

Here is a clip of the TMB channel with everything dimed, tube recto, fixed bias (about 75% diss), NFB on, boost on, bright on.

http://www.unimind.us/TrinityPlexi2.mp3

This amp is very versatile from clean to dirty and I am planning on making more clips showing the range of sounds I can get out of it.

-Les

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Last edited by Unimind on Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:07 pm 
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wesmont wrote:
Dont get me wrong I am in NO way bashing the 18 watt. The Trinity Plexi TMB 18 watt i have here is awesome. However, I think the 2061 is a pretty viable amp in its own right.

Don't get me wrong either. :) The 2061 is a great little amp in its own right. But the 18W simply beats it on tone - note the comment from Mike Doyle I posted earlier. I also don't agree with the superficial generalization that it's more Plexi like, because tone-wise it just isn't. IMO those comments you posted are really somewhat the exception, and of course there will always be people who think differently.

Here's another very telling post:

wannatone wrote:
I had an accidental experience that pointed out the direction where to go.
At some point my brother visited me and was sitting in the office, when I plugged into my 18 Watt to noodle a bit. He came and mentioned, that sounds really great. Then I told him about all the famous Holy Grail vintage gear... plugged them all in and played (as there are a '57 Bassman, '59 Bassman, '60 AC30/4, '66 JTM45, '66 JTM100...) til he stopped me, telling that none of those came close to my 18 Watter...


wesmont wrote:
Koss59 wrote:
I have both, the 1974x is great for rehearsals and small jazz/blues gigs the 2061x through a 4-12 is amazing and holds its own easily with a loud rock band, all those classic tones are there. I can see people using the 1974x a bit in home but never the 2061x as it's just too loud.

That's not a valid comparison. He should play his 18W through a 4X12 and then see how loud it is. The difference of 2W power is barely enough to be heard. The difference is mainly in the speakers, as illustrated in this post.
bitsandvolts wrote:
I was able to pump my 18 watter through my 1X12 full blast...without much pain... Playing the thing through my buddy's 4X12 was another story. I couldn't get past 7 without wanting to reach for the guy's hotplate.


wesmont wrote:
Loopmaster wrote:
I have both and the 2061 can be balls to the wall AC/DC whereas the 1974X is more like a Bluesbreaker. Just my opinion

Gain and distortion wise both amps are in the same league. The difference he's seeing may be more to do with the speakers. Like I said before, the 18W totally nails AC/DC and has that distinctive Malcolm/Angus Young edginess in its tone, more than the 20W has.

wesmont wrote:
Tuna wrote:
This amp has a tighter sound than the 1974, my guess would be the diode rectifier in this amp versus the tube rectifier in the 1974X, as well as the non aged Celestions. (I think the new ones are coming with the new preaged G-12H.)

I would basically agree with what he says. The 2061 and its cab look great He's also realised the importance of the speakers - and the cab itself also plays a huge part in how the amp sounds and feels. You will never get the same punch from an open-back combo that you will from a closed-backed cab. The rectifier will also make a difference, as we were discussing before, but not quite as much as you may think.

Here are a few more posts about loudness:

deadbeat32000 wrote:
I tell you now, my 18 watter is loud. I am used to playing my Rivera Knucklehead 100 watt, but since I have completed my 18 watt, it is all I need. I eat the other guitarist for lunch volume wise and he has a 1969 Super Reverb! ... I only have the volume on 6 or 7 and it is a bit too loud. The bass player keeps telling me to turn down but I do not. ...
csbradley wrote:
So how loud is the 18 Watter? Well its loud enough to play over a drummer and another guitar player, and have a couple of cops show up at your door. But it was a fun night
Roudyrockr wrote:
Personally I think the 18 watt in a 2X12 with high efficiency speakers is extremely loud. I took the one I just built with the 2 private jacks to a little amp fest along with a Fender Cybertwin and a couple of other solid state amps in the 100 watt range. We were in a room that was about 15x30 and you couldn't stay in the room with the 18 watt on 2 much less above that. Everyone was blown away by the tone and response of the amp but they couldn't handle the volume. It's just damned loud!
stax wrote:
I built my Ampmaker 18w 9 months ago just for a project, never thinking it would put my 45w Fender pro into retirement, but i have used it every gig since. (apart from a blues club in Amsterdam where no guitar amps are alowed :( Our drummer uses the Big Figure's (Dr Feelgood) original 70s kit and he hits em hard but lack of volume from my 18watter has never been an issue.
EBE wrote:
If your band is too loud for an 18watt, your band is very loud. A dimed 18watter will be WAY too loud for a small to medium tavern. In a medium club with raised stage it can still be too loud. It all depends on the drummer and if the other guitar player is playing a half stack. :D Tilt your amp back some; that is usually the fix I need to hear myself. Norm
Keith2112 wrote:
With an efficient speaker, an 18 watt is very loud. If you crank an 18 watter and it is not loud enough, your bandmates must be insanely loud. Our bass player uses an SVT with the full 8 speaker cabinet and I have no problem being heard with my 1x12 and I come no where near to cranking it. Granted our drummer is not a heavy hitter and our bass player does not have it cranked, but there is no issue with being loud enough.
E-rex wrote:
..if my 18 watter through a 4x12 isn't loud enough then I don't wanna be a part of that much noise. I respectfully disagree though that a cranked 18 watter is too loud for small/medium clubs. If thats the case, then the drums are going to be too loud as well and it must not be a rock & roll bar. I crank mine most everywhere we play...sometimes I use a 1x12 detuned cab but non-the-less it is cranked and people love it. By cranked I mean about 8 on a scale of ten...but it doesn't get any louder after about 4 or 5 anyway.
jas wrote:
I must agree - 18W is plenty loud! I've played all sorts of 50W & 100W heads, cabs, etc, and as soon as I plugged into the 18W and fired it up, people stood up and took notice! I play in a 300 seat auditorium, and I can quite easily drown out a very loud drummer, bass player and the PA, though I know the PA is lacking horsepower.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:28 pm 
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Unimind wrote:
Here are the mods I have done.
V2b tail resistor 100K
Tone stack 250pF/33K
Negative feedback 47K off 8 ohm tap
Presence 5K/.1uF

Rectifier switch
Bias switch
NFB switch
Cascade switch
Bright switch

http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... Layout.jpg
http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... ematic.jpg
(my changes are in red)

I have been having problems with the VRM on the diode rectifier so I have not been using it. But to be honest I did not really notice a big difference in the feel (i.e. tightness) with the diodes. This amp is pretty tight even with the EZ81.

Here is a clip of the TMB channel with everything dimed, tube recto, fixed bias (about 75% diss), NFB on, boost on, bright on.

http://www.unimind.us/TrinityPlexi2.mp3

This amp is very versatile from clean to dirty and I am planning on making more clips showing the range of sounds I can get out of it.


I'm totally loving those clips!!! The cascade mode works so well. :D

BTW you can't use a VRM with fixed-bias, as you end up having to scale the boas and screen voltages as well.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:43 pm 
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RMosack wrote:
Yikes! :shock:

Is that just the amp cranked? Amazing.
b0b0 wrote:
That is a SERIOUSLY brown-sounding amp!

What you're hearing is the tone of a cascaded 18W.

bpkuder wrote:
Mine does not sound remotely close to this plexi. My TMB channel is having issues with flabby muddy bass and less volume output compared to the normal channel. Any ideas? Cabinet is a 4x12 Marshall greenback loaded.

What kind of 18W is your amp? Also Greenbacks in a 4X12 can sound somewhat flubby. It's a known thing. You can improve the bass by using lower value coupling caps between stages. You can also tighten up bass in the power amp, either by using a very low value cathode cap, like 50uF or a really huge one, like 1000uF+. The 50uF gives more of a vintage dynamic feel, while the 1000uF+ gives a stiffer feel.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Wow, thats a lot of quotes.


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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Thanks alot Les I appreciate the info. Your amp sounds amazing, good job!! Just flat out wicked, wow!! Thats still with the old reliable cab too huh?


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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:48 pm 
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zaphod wrote:
What you're hearing is the tone of a cascaded 18W.
...I'm totally loving those clips!!! The cascade mode works so well. :D

Actually those clips are not the cascaded channels. Just the dimed Bright(TMB) channel. I will make some cascaded clips and post them later. The cascade sounds quite different . It sounds 80s ish not like the classic amps.

zaphod wrote:
BTW you can't use a VRM with fixed-bias, as you end up having to scale the boas and screen voltages as well.

I have a VRM setup just to scale the diode B+ down to match the tube B+ so that the fixed bias would not be altered when switching between rectos.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:55 pm 
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Posted mutiple clips in the clippage section.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2619

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:02 am 
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Amp is sounding killer. Off to listen to the official clippage now!!

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:27 pm 
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coco wrote:
Amp is sounding killer.



+1 Sounds sweet! Great work.


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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Update:
Made some changes to the normal channel to tighten up the bass.
Changed coupling cap to .0047uF
Changed cathode bypass cap to 3.3uF
Sounds much tighter now. Really has that 80s feel.

I added two new clips to my clippage thread. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2619&p=21584#p21584

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:28 pm 
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Location: Dallas, Tx
1 Ibanez RG 7 string
+ 1 Boss super overdrive
+ 1 kick a$$ Trinity Super Lead "Brown" 18watt with fixed bias, NFB and cascaded channels
+ 1 homemade $50 attenuator
+ 1 1978 Peavey 412 cabinet = http://www.unimind.us/7String1.mp3
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
:jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop:

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:08 pm 
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Unimind wrote:
+ 1 homemade $50 attenuator

I've been looking into building an attenuator. Any chance of seeing the attenuator schematic?

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:52 pm 
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b0b0 wrote:
I've been looking into building an attenuator. Any chance of seeing the attenuator schematic?

This is the one I built. http://www.regiscoyne.com/coppertone/ Mine is not as pretty.
The schematic is on this page. http://www.regiscoyne.com/havanatone/ Scroll down toward the bottom for the schematic.

The main part is the 100W Stereo LPAD which I got from Parts Express.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=260-264

Here's mine.
Attachment:
DSCN7408b.JPG
DSCN7408b.JPG [ 52.84 KiB | Viewed 22327 times ]
Attachment:
DSCN7409b.JPG
DSCN7409b.JPG [ 50.03 KiB | Viewed 22327 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 4:44 pm 
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Using an old computer power supply case & fan is a great idea. One thing concerns me a bit about the schematic.....the switched jack on the spkr out. If the unit is set to bypass & nothing is plugged into the jack, wouldn't it be a dead short to the amp? :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 1:20 am 
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b0b0 wrote:
Using an old computer power supply case & fan is a great idea. One thing concerns me a bit about the schematic.....the switched jack on the spkr out. If the unit is set to bypass & nothing is plugged into the jack, wouldn't it be a dead short to the amp? :shock:
I guess it would be but just like the amp I would never run it without a speaker plugged in.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 9:02 am 
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You can read up on this. It's better for a tube amp to see a short at the speaker output than an open circuit. It's counter-intuitive since it's not the same for solid state. The tubes end up limiting the amount of current they can pull with the output shorted, whereas with the output hanging open circuited you're likely to blow the output transformer.


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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 10:06 am 
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Unimind wrote:
I would never run it without a speaker plugged in.
True-dat!

ForcedFire wrote:
It's better for a tube amp to see a short at the speaker output than an open circuit.
I did not know that.....excellent info.

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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 12:38 pm 
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:hmmm: :hmmm: :hmmm: :hmmm:
Unimind wrote:
Here are the mods I have done.

V1a coupling cap .0022uF
V1a mix resistor/cap 470K/330pF
V1b coupling cap .0047uF
VR1 bright cap 550pF
V1b bypass cap 3.3uF
V1b mix resistor 470K
VR3 bright cap 550pF
V2a bypass cap on boost .68uF 160V
V2b tail resistor 100K
Tone stack 250pF/33K
Negative feedback 47K off 8 ohm tap
Presence 5K/.1uF
PI 100pF across plates
PA grid leaks 220K
PA cathode cap 50uF

Rectifier switch
Bias switch
NFB switch
Cascade switch
Bright switch

http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... Layout.jpg
http://www.unimind.us/images/Trinity18_ ... ematic.jpg
(my changes are in red)

I have been having problems with the VRM on the diode rectifier so I have not been using it. But to be honest I did not really notice a big difference in the feel (i.e. tightness) with the diodes. This amp is pretty tight even with the EZ81.

Here is a clip of the TMB channel with everything dimed, tube recto, fixed bias (about 75% diss), NFB on, boost on, bright on.

http://www.unimind.us/TrinityPlexi2.mp3

This amp is very versatile from clean to dirty and I am planning on making more clips showing the range of sounds I can get out of it.

-Les

:hmmm: :thumbsup:


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 Post subject: Re: New Plexi Build
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:44 pm 
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is the Bias switch to run the 6v6's?

what is the purpose between the two 1R resistors going to V4 and V5?


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