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 Post subject: Caps and other questions
PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 11:06 am 
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Greetings all, I just have a quick inquiry as to using a substitute .1uf? Would I run into any issues if I were to use either Orange Drop 716P .1 or a SoZo .1 in this position? Understanding that the SoZo is only rated @ 400vdc.
In addition I am concerned after reading somewhere that the JJ rectifier is NOT recommended. I heard if it goes it takes the PT xformer with it???
Can anyone shed some light on this?

My build is going well so far, the 5watt 1.5K Cement resistor (that goes over the 32/32 power Cap) was not included in my shipment as well as most of the (I believe 8/32 locking nuts). These are the ones that secure the reverse side of the tube sockets.
I have acquired the resistor elsewhere (it was more convenient for me this way).
But I would be great to get the nuts shipped to me.

My last inquiry is pertaining to sound itself. If for some reason I find the sound too shrill or too high pitched (I hear this might happen) what caps / areas would need adjustment?
Thanks very much in advance to anyone that has information pertaining to any of the above.

Happy First Time Builder


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:49 pm 
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Orange drops wouldn't be recommended in this type of amp, which is based on an essentially British architecture, but Sozos would be excellent. Voltages are all normally below 400V, so there should be no problem there. I don't know about the JJ rectifiers. I heard stories that there had been a batch get out, but I suspect that we're now past that problem. I think you will find the TC-15's own tone controls will help you control the brightness to suit your own tastes. I would just say that if you don't want a lot of brightness, stay away from New Sensor's "Tong Sol" 12AX7s. Stick to JJ 12AX7s or New Sensor's "Mullard" 12AX7s.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:08 pm 
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I have heard the JJ rectos pump a bit more voltage than most others. Might make a slight diff to the tone. I haven't A/B's so I don't know for sure. I'm sure Phil will have something to say there. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:25 pm 
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I saw a new JJ 5AR4 Rectifier blow in a JTM 45 so we don't use them anymore.
Email me about any missing parts please & they will be sent out. Sorry about that.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:20 pm 
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Most of the tube sockets don't require locking nuts, actually. The chassis holes for the socket screws are threaded. The nuts are for the ones that have terminal strips. This is the mistake I made on the 18 but caught on the 15. Mine was short the 5W resistor that goes across the can cap as well, but I had to order tubes and included one with that order. It went together surprisingly easy (though as I recall I did have to install an extra eyelet--which I didn't have. I put in a turret instead and it worked out great). I'd like to redo the wiring of the input jacks as mine are a shameful mess--but they are working so I'll leave them alone for now.

I'm very pleased with mine. I'm sure you will enjoy yours as well.

Lee


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