Hi Keith. It was a happy day when my 5E3 kit came. It was a happier day when I first plugged it in! I'm no expert, but I can help a bit.
keithb7 wrote:
1. My schematic is B&W. Are colour schematics available, especially on the net?
2.Is There any rhyme or reason to colour co-ordinating the wires? The kit comes with several colours of solid core wire...
I got a b/w plan and a coloured plan. I looked at the wires, looked at the coloured plan, and put the coloured plan away.
Then - I went through the schematic, and very, very carefully traced the "signal", as I was able to understand it, through the various resistors, through the gain stages and capacitors, and made my own colour scheme, one that made sense to me. Got out the pencil crayons and coloured the b/w plan myself. It's my bloody amp, I want to understand it as well as I can. (I'm still working on that, even though I finished a while ago now and it worked perfectly at first start-up.) I think I used purple for "bright" and orange for "normal", as long as that made sense, then a different colour once the signal got past the phase inverter; green for ground, until I ran out of green, and then I used white; you get the idea.
It's a great idea to use two different colours for the "filament" or "heater" wire, so you don't get the +/- turned around. I think you got a black and red wire, twisted together, with the kit? Traditionally, green is used for the heater wire, and some vintage snobs will give you a tease about that - but it's not their amp, is it?
keithb7 wrote:
3. I don't recall seeing any coax wire in the parts. Supposed to go from V2 pin 2 to the volume pot. Is the black shielded cable actually coax?
The black shielded cable is coax, and it needs to run as you've said. I was advised that the shield is only connected at the volume pot - it is not to be connected at the other end. Trim the shielding off square, and insulate the trimmed shielding with a length of heat-shrink.
keithb7 wrote:
4.When mounting the power transformer do I remove the 4 nuts that came on the 4 mounting posts, seat it in the chassis, then re-use the standard nuts to secure it? Or should I be removing the 4 nuts then secure it in place with 4 #8 star lock nuts that came in the kit? Or leave the standard nuts in place, seat it in the chassis? If I do this the transformer will not sit flush against the chassis. The nuts standard nuts will be between the chassis and the transformer.
I think I used the nuts that were on the transformer, but the star lock nuts would probably work well - I do think you want direct contact between the transformer and the chassis, so there is continuity - but hopefully you'll get better advice on this point from another.
Good luck! I loved building mine - I want to make another one!
q.