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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 3:56 pm 
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Me again Dave. another detail:

I just checked the circuits inside my amp, looked over and under the eyelet Board and I found out I have not installed the 220K resistor in this spot we are talking about.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:52 am 
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gotie wrote:
Me again Dave. another detail:

I just checked the circuits inside my amp, looked over and under the eyelet Board and I found out I have not installed the 220K resistor in this spot we are talking about.


Thanks gotie. I have sent an email to Stephen, hopefully he will send a reply soon. My build is on hold till I get this guestion answered.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:25 am 
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I don't know if it helps but I do not have the 220k fitted to my tramp in parallel to the 33uf but also do not have a 220k in parallel with the second 50uf.

My layout was older too, hmm. My tramp works barring a VRM issue which is in progress at the moment, and sounds great.

Please post a reply when you get one, I'm curious as to what effect these parts will have if installed now.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:18 am 
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I believe those 220k resistors are bleed resistors, which is basically a safety precaution. They allow the caps to discharge a little quicker when the amp is powered down.....to reduce the likelihood of painful finger-zappage.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:38 am 
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Exactly.

From what I understand, they are a recent addition to the design and they were not included in every kit at the workshop, but Stephen and Chris brought some in and handed them out.

They won't affect the function of the amp at all.
Even with them in, wait a couple of minutes after power down before sticking your fingers into the circuit.

Some guys did squeeze them in under and between the caps.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:57 am 
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Dave wrote: Thanks gotie. I have sent an email to Stephen, hopefully he will send a reply soon. My build is on hold till I get this guestion answered.[/quote]


OK Dave, I'll wait and see what answer you'll get before installing the resistor (if it is needed). If I do install it, it would be above the eyelet board because it would take too much work to lift the board from my completed amp.

Thanks for your email to Stephen. Too bad your build is on hold.

As for me, I guess it's safe, from the other replies I read on this question, to use my amp. I received two used 6L6GC yesterday (RCA and Sylvania) and I am looking forward to plugging one of them in.

If it is only a bleed resistor, and that's a very probable explanation, then it explains why the amp can run well without it. But it could be useful to install it anyway.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:46 am 
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Those 220k resistors are power supply bleed resistors - a safety precaution only. They allow the caps to discharge when the amp is powered down. They are optional, but we have been including some in some later kits

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:30 pm 
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Thanks Stephen and everyone else for their help.Greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 2:21 pm 
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Dave6789 wrote:
Thanks Stephen and everyone else for their help.Greatly appreciated.


The same with me. Thank you very much.

Now I know where the bleed resistors are. :D


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:48 am 
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I have another guestion, getting close to firing the amp up. Not sure about the setting for the bias switch for the 6V6 tube. I have posted 2 pics showing were I believe the switch position should be for the 6V6 tube. That is away from the cabinet, with the cabinet standing up or the switch is up with the cabinet laying down as in the attached pics. Can anyone please confirm this for me?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:20 am 
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Correct.

Make sure your switches lugs are jumpered horizontally.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:40 am 
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Dave6789 wrote:
I have another guestion, getting close to firing the amp up. Not sure about the setting for the bias switch for the 6V6 tube. I have posted 2 pics showing were I believe the switch position should be for the 6V6 tube. That is away from the cabinet, with the cabinet standing up or the switch is up with the cabinet laying down as in the attached pics. Can anyone please confirm this for me?


Hi Dave.

Great to hear from you again.

FWIW, I think you got it right.

Here is what I found out with my Tramp:

6V6 use: the amp has been used with the same setting that you indicate for the bias switch for the 6V6. Just to confirm: with the cabinet standing up, that switch is away from the cabinet.

Then I decided to try using a 6L6. So I used the 6L6 setting (bias switch towards the cabinet) and the 6L6 tube (RCA and Sylvania, I have two) works fine in that setting.

I used a multimeter to guide me when deciding what switch position did what.

I plan to use a black marker to indicate what the settings are. It could be written on the chassis, near the switch. It would normally be hidden from view but could be seen, if necessary as a reminder, by looking under the amp.

Hope this helps.

Are you having fun?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:14 pm 
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Thanks everyone. I fired up the amp and I am getting sound. I have to have the Volume pull'tude at 9, the master volume at 9 and the idle power level at 6 to get any volume at all, does that sound right?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 12:39 pm 
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Dave6789 wrote:
Thanks everyone. I fired up the amp and I am getting sound. I have to have the Volume pull'tude at 9, the master volume at 9 and the idle power level at 6 to get any volume at all, does that sound right?

Set your bass and treble to what you like, turn down volume to zero, master volume to max, VRM to max.
Plug in guitar turn up guitar controls. Turn up volume as you play and set your master, volume, bass and treble to the sound you like. Start turning down the VRM until you have the overall volume and tone that you want. with the VRM at 6 you will get very low sound without maxing the master and volume. Having said that my normal for the Tramp is Master and volume max, bass and treble about 8 and 6. Tude and fat. I then set the VRM to what I want. Play with the controls(master,volume,VRM) as they to a point are interactive.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:00 pm 
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Taz13 wrote:
Dave6789 wrote:
Thanks everyone. I fired up the amp and I am getting sound. I have to have the Volume pull'tude at 9, the master volume at 9 and the idle power level at 6 to get any volume at all, does that sound right?

Set your bass and treble to what you like, turn down volume to zero, master volume to max, VRM to max.
Plug in guitar turn up guitar controls. Turn up volume as you play and set your master, volume, bass and treble to the sound you like. Start turning down the VRM until you have the overall volume and tone that you want. with the VRM at 6 you will get very low sound without maxing the master and volume. Having said that my normal for the Tramp is Master and volume max, bass and treble about 8 and 6. Tude and fat. I then set the VRM to what I want. Play with the controls(master,volume,VRM) as they to a point are interactive.


Thank you Taz13, that was very helpful.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 3:29 pm 
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I am finished my Tramp build. Again, I have to thank everyone for their help. :) It seems to be working fine, playing with the amp controls yields lots of different tones. The same settings will have a different sound for each different guitar. With the 6V6 tube it is plenty loud for me playing at home, I wonder what a 6L6 will sound like :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:39 pm 
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Nice work :thumbsup: :D

6L6 = bigger sound and tone

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:24 pm 
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Dave6789 wrote:
I am finished my Tramp build. Again, I have to thank everyone for their help. :) It seems to be working fine, playing with the amp controls yields lots of different tones. The same settings will have a different sound for each different guitar. With the 6V6 tube it is plenty loud for me playing at home, I wonder what a 6L6 will sound like :)


Nice looking amp Dave. I'm glad you like the tone and appreciate it's versatility.

Nice looking guitar too. A Tele is now my main guitar.


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