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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:12 pm 
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OK I need you to confirm something for me...If you touch lug #2 of the volume pot and turn the control up and down the noise you hear should get louder and softer.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:34 pm 
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the sound does get louder as far as I can tell but its very very faint even with everything maxed.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:50 pm 
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Geez I don't know Man. We need to find someplace in the circuit that's working. Do you have a replacement tube for V1? Are the voltages still OK? Is the sound louder when you touch pin 5 of the output tube?
Where abouts are you located?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:14 pm 
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all the voltages seem normal... the ones where V1 meet the board seem a little bit low.

I'm getting a much louder pop where pin 1 of v1 connects to the board.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:23 pm 
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If the pop is much louder at pin1, then move along the circuit towards pin7. each side of C2 (0.01 uf) then to lug3 of the volume pot then lug 2 then each eand of the 330K then finally at pin 7. Make sure volume is up full.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:16 pm 
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It seems to get quieter after it passes through c2... I guess I'll reflow that joint just in case


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:05 am 
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and I'm in Norfolk, VA btw.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Too far for a visit :( . When you plug in a guitar and turn everything up full and hit a chord...what are you hearing? Is there any volume to it at all, like , can you talk over the sound?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:36 pm 
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the sounds definitely isn't faint... but you can still talk over it. And its not even close to where it should be for being a cranked tube amp. Sounds like a soft clean setting.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:18 am 
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Have you tried playing around with the impedance switch?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:37 am 
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Not really, I'm using an 8ohm speaker so I left the switch in the middle position.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 4:18 pm 
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J.R. wrote:
Not really, I'm using an 8ohm speaker so I left the switch in the middle position.

For the sake of testing... you can switch to other settings..till we are sure the switch isn't hooped.
You don't have another 12a_7 you can try in v1?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:40 pm 
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No... I can order one though if that might be the problem... even if it's not, I'll need another one eventually anyway. Is there any brand you'd recommend for the Tramp?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:26 pm 
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That's a very subjective thing. I suppose you can't go wrong with a JJ or Groove tube.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:21 pm 
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alright, i ordered replacement tubes, should be here just in time for my winter break.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:03 pm 
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Ok, let me chime in now, sorry to be late. It may be possibe that the jumper to the 220K plate resistor is wrong. Take a look at the layout here and compare to yours.

download/file.php?id=509&mode=view

There was a mix up on a few layout digrams out there & we thought they were covered but you may have to move the jumper to the other 220K plate resistor.

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Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:21 pm 
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I'll check when I get home. Thanks Stephen.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:35 pm 
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hey stephen, just looked at my layout. the jumper is going to the right terminal on my layout but the two 220k resistors are swapped with the red one on the layout going to the right terminal with the jumped and the .01uf cap. Should i switch the location of the resistors and the jumper?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:18 pm 
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Hi! Welcome back.
The brown resistor on the layout is a carbon composite resistor. Stephen decided that a CC at this location would add a little mojo to the sound. Just follow the layout exactly! If you've put the CC resistor on the right hand turret instead of the left, you cannot simply change the wires around to make up for the mistake. The wire from pin 6 of V1 MUST go to the 220K that has the jumper under the board connected to it. The wire from pin 1 of V1 MUST go to the 220K that also has the .01 if cap connected to it. NO SUBSTITUTIONS!!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Ok, that's what i mean. I'll just double check all of my wiring with the layout Stephen posted.


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