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Hi Guys.

Building my First Amp.

I´ve got 2 questions, that are probably very stupid but anyway:

1. When conecting the VRM to the fuse and the Transformer, Which goes where? On the layout it says that the one on the left-bottom conection goes to the Transformer, and the one on the right-top goes to the fuse. Is this correct, or the other way around? I´ve seen pictures, and i´ve seen both ways.

2. How do i Know if the 6V6/6L6 i set the correct way? If it towards the Transformers is for 6V6 or 6L6

Thnks

Never be afraid to ask, no questions are stupid.

#1 the fuse and the VRM are on opposite sides of the transformer and are not directly connected. The fuse is the first thing the hot side of the AC ( from your house wall plate). the black wire in the ac cord, goes through then on to the off/on switch. It's not critical which of the 2 connections on the fuse holder is which but on the build layout pic you can see that the black wire form the ac cord goes to the tip of the fuse holder then the other one ( the one kinda on the side) goes to the switch.
#2 the switch operated like this, if the toggle is in the up position then the center two lugs are connected to the bottom 2 lugs and if it's in the down position,the center lugs connect to the upper lugs. It can be a little difficult to understand.. I think you might just go ahead and wire it the way you think is right and we can always check later when the amp is finished. We can do that before it's powered up so nothing will go wrong. But try this .in the layout you see the switch is in the up position and he has that labeled as the 6l6 position and the connections are on the middle and upper terminals.
Stew

Be sure to wire the power transformer for 240V BTW. Follow the directions in the manual for that.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks guys.
This is what i´ve got. The question is either to connect from the Fuse (the empty middle connection) to the TOP RIGHT CONNECTION of the VRM or the BOTTOM LEFT of the VRM.

Should I follow the LAYOUT?

240v?? Colombia works with 120v...

Oh.. now I understand your question when you say "VRM" you're talking about the pot with the switch. If that's the case ..either or.. It's a simple open/closed switch. So as long as you only use the 2 connections on the switch part of the pot..and not the other 3 lugs of the actual potentiometer..you can't go wrong!
Stew

Thanks Stew. Now i realize my "newbie" stupidness by calling that the VRM instead of the Power Level Switch.

BTW Stephen,

Just a small detail. On page 32 and 33 We´ve got both detailed connections for both rear and front of the Board.
Those two layout dont match the layout i got. The layout hast 16 holes on the top on the layout and 15 on the manual. I have also 16 holes on my board, which matches the colored layout. This is due to that added hole and its "jumper" (on the top) where a 22K, 2x 2K7 and .47uF are hooked. I saw your original Tramp and it only had one hole where you guys connected everything. Now there are two wholes connected by a jumper. I guess it is way to crowded to connect al 4 parts on the top and the 2x jumpers on the bottom.

Maybe a good idea to update the layouts on the manual for the one with the added whole and jumper.

I also checked for connectivity and everything works good, but i did get a +1 and +2 (not the usual 0) on my multimeter when checking connectivity with the added Front Jumper. Will that make any difference??

Thanks, will make that update in the manual. The connectivity with the added Jumper looks fine.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Hei Guys.

I installed the board yesterday and had some questions.

1. I connected a normal cable from pin6 on the 6L6 to pin 2 on the Master Volume Pot. But I´ve seen various pictures with a shielded cable to pin 2 and the shield to pin 1. Should i stick to the Layout?

2. The shilded cable from the .1 uFCap. Do i conect both cable and shield to the cap?? or just the cable. Cause, on the Input it is understood that the shield must be split.

3. On the Layout, Pin 1 on the Master Volume is connected to the first left connector (the one that already has a jumper) on the Input, and from there to Pin 1 on the Volume (the one that has the shield from the 330K Resistor). Is this right?ç

Thnks.

PD: How do you guys feel about South American Rosewood Class wood for the Cabin. I'm thinking about 1" Hardwood all the way except the Baffle which will be 3/4" Plywood baffle.

#1. Yes. Shielded cable not really needed here.
#2 No. Generally you only connect the shield to ground on one end of the cable.
#3 From the 330K the center conductor connects to pin 2 of the pot. The shield is connected to pin 1 which is ground.
Stew

Guys,

Two questions:

1. I been cleaning everything and I have 2x Spare 220K 1W (cream color with stripes: RED-RED-YELLOW-GOLD) resistors. I got 4x and Im using one at the volume pot and the otherthat goes on the Board joining at one end with another 220K Resistor (red) and at the other with the .01uF Cap and Pin 1 on the 12AX7. Is this correct??

There's 2 220ks associated with V1 one on pin 1 and one on pin 6. There's a 3rd on the volume pot (pin 3). Then are two 2 watt resistors (220K) associated with the power supply across the filter caps.
So 5 in total. 2 -2watters, 3 1 watters . One of the 1 watters is a Carbon composite (red ) and is on pin 6 (v1).

Stoo,

I've got based on the Layout:
3x 220K 2W Resistors (These are the "big" Grey body resistors). One on each 50uF CAp, and One on the 33uF Cap
2x 220K 1W Resistor (Cream color body). One associated with Pin 1 of the 12AX7. And the other on the Volume pot for pin 3.
1x 220K 1W Resistor (Red Body) Associated with Pin 6 on the 12AX7

But i still have for some reason 2x 220K 1W (cream color) spare.

Is this ok?? And should i just be happy about it?? jajajaja

Just consider them "spares"

Guys,

I plugged my TRAMP.

I did get the 400+ VDC and also the 630+VAC. No flames, smoke, except a very nice RED LED light... So excited!!!!

BUT

I don't get the next step

Test the filament voltages and ensure they are on the correct pins for all tubes. 3.15 from each pin to ground or 6.3 across the heater wires on the tubes sockets.

How is this measured. Is that AC?? should I put my BLACK'COM meter terminal on the chassis and tst with the red one each pin?? Sorry, totally clueless rightnow :S

Good to see you've progressed this far !!

Yes the filament voltages are AC, and it is measured across the the pins not with respect to ground. In other words, across pins 4/5 and 9 on a 12ax7. In this case your looking for 6.3 vac . It will read 3.15 vac if you measure from one of those pins to ground.
Stew

Thanks everythig till there s perfect!!!

BUT!!!!

Tubes are glowing beautifly... orange yellow.

No smoke. no pops.

BUT

I'm measuring the DC voltage at the second 50uf cap on the + terminal. I'm going from IDLE to MAX on the POWER LEVEL and:
At Idle it measures 440VDC and as i go to max it doesn't rise but it goes down!!!! Did i Messed up?? I have all my other knobs at minimum. I'm getting at MAX 418VDC

BUT!!!!

On the first 50uf Cap it does rise!!!