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Excellent. A miss on our part to be sure.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

keto - might have been easier as well for the screws/wire to get through if you stand up the OT on one of the ends like below. I think the mounting holes are spaced for this orientation:




looks like this fellow didn't care for tube shields either!

Yessir, I did that last night - but not for the reason you give. I was told to do so to get the windings to not be parallel on each transformer, for potentially less noise. I have a pic, but the OT is rotated 180 wrong in the pic - wrong colour wires thru the wrong holes, a problem I had previously fixed. I fixed it but was too pissed to take a pic - must have had the transformers off 5 times yesterday lol.

I'd like to see that pic. Please let me know where it is. Still making progress. Take it slow.

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Stephen
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I'd like to see that pic. Please let me know where it is. Still making progress. Take it slow.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Didn't do anything with it yesterday, had another min-project to complete. Will start working on chassis wiring tonight.

Fresh pics, this is right now how everything sits:


Most of the components are just in loosely, so I can take them off easily to do partial wiring.

OK tonight is starting to work on wiring the chassis. Confused about something already: The 2 solid green wires, off the PT, that go to the light....there are 2 terminals on the light, is it both wires to 1 terminal or 1 wire to each terminal? I've looked at a bunch of build pic threads and not been able to see the answer.

Later, I'm going to run something off there. From the same terminal(s)?

One green wire to each terminal. Later one black wire will connect to one terminal and one red wire will connected to the other terminal. These red and black wires carry the voltage to supply the tube's heaters/filaments.

Your right the Triwatt layout isn't very clear for this part.

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Once again **apreciation**, Kurt. I got a lot done tonight, at least I think so.
I had to drill out the holes on the light, for the tinned wires to fit thru.

Later, I added the heater wires.


My socket heater wiring:



Misc. parts added



Wiring the resistor + cap to V3 got a little messy, but nothing touches any other component - I know you can't tell that from this pic.


Ooops, I forgot about the jacks back there - fortunately, they still fit.


More power wiring


Bias section



As always, input and spotting of potential errors welcomed.

Couple more pics of V3, to show it's not as bad as that other pic makes it look. I hope. lol.

A couple of observations:
1) I'm fairly early on, and out of green solid core ground wire. I haven't wasted much, 3-4" max. It wouldn't hurt to throw another foot or 2 in the package.
2) There should be a warning about this:


I oriented my input jacks up. As you can see, they won't clear the lip. I fixed it by turning the bright/brilliant on its side, bending my wiring along the way.


Anyways, been diddling along at a slow pace today. Here's the other end of the inputs


And earlier, I ran the black wires from the PT.


More later.

Question re: output jacks....the layout shows the ground wire (closest to the chassis) going to one leg of the jack furthest from the impedance switch. The walk thru shows it hitting both legs, as do some build pics I've looked at.

Does it matter?

I'm going to wire it to both, easier to snip it than to add later.

Finished for tonight.

Don't know what you mean but your jacks look fine from here.

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You can feed it through all terminals across the jacks. Fixed in the layout.
Also clarifed the wiring at the indicator.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

The parts list says the standoff bolts are 6-32x 1 1/4". The supplied bolts are 6-32x 3/4". There are none longer bolts in the kit.


I was a little upset about this, especially given I had already lost 2 of the bolts and made a trip for 3/4" replacements once previously.

Turn a negative into a positive, I say. I bought the 1 1/4 bolts and an extra package of nuts - I wanted a bit more clearance under the board.
3 extra nuts is just right.




Yes, I will be careful with the legs of the 5w resistor when I actually install it. I'll probably shrink wrap the legs and rearrange it a bit.

I haven't figured out if there are any unintended consequences to raising the board, with respect to wire management or parts placement yet. Shouldn't be though, from quick observation.

Raising the board has created no issues. Just have V1 and pots-to-board wiring to go. Pics laid out in quadrants.

All righty. Internals done, but obviously not quite.

Powered up, no tubes, the light came on but just briefly. Cycled power again, light did not come on. Have it sitting unplugged now.

Pulled the fuse, but it seems to be intact - I'm not 100% sure how to test, but used the continuity setting on my meter and it does have continuity. It also doesn't appear to be physically damaged, tho I recognize that's not foolproof.

Suggestions on where to start?

**EDIT** it did blow up the light bulb! Smoked it and put a hole in the glass closest to the lens.

Just some common sense advise. Print a copy of the layout and grab a highlighter. Take your time and review every component and connection. Sounds boring but that's where I would start. Remember "speed kills".
Post a photo.

Sounds like you got high voltage on the heater wires. Did you follow the step to test the power transformer wiring? Dont put ANY tubes in until that heater voltage is confirmed & is rectified.

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Stephen
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