trinityamps.com

I have a VJ chassis,with a board from Ken at turretboards.
The owner wanted a 6L6 amp, no 6V6 needed.
But I may drop the board and use ptp, or make a custom board.
We talked a lot finally settled on the Tramp.
Looks good to me! Reports are excellent. Fits his demands.

MPS OT20SE? I happen to have one on hand.
What PT--assuming there have been some different choices made.

He wants to keep up with a drummer. I don't think he'll have a problem.

I see no replies.
I am building this without a kit, so if I'm being a rip off, just tell me.
I am just trying to modify the guys amp the way he wants.

Use the iron used in the actually Tramp. It will make a very big difference. The iron used in the Tramp is high quality and specifically designed for the amp.

_________________
http://pdfelectronics.com

I already got a Classic Tone PT and the MPS OT..
I know the MPS has been reported as not fully up to snuff in some builds.. if it
wont do the job, I'll replace it. It's rated at 20W so should be pretty ok, I'd think.
The Classic Tone 14085 PT I got because I had to order 4 other OT's.



I only found one layout.. and it's fuzzy.. the problem I'm having is figuring out the
best way to do it from the schematic
Leaving out the VRM.. keeping the Tweed Tude Switch.. no 6V6.

After looking, I may do turret board front end and shorter eyelet board for the filter caps.

the tweed tude bit confuses me a bit.. looks like two switches? push pull on gain and..?
I suppose once I start just laying parts around it will come to me.

found the resources area.. cleared a LOT up... I think I can move right along now.

this is exciting now, instead of headache.
I must have drawn it five times.

Soon as I'm done with the vj conversion, I'm gonna buy something Trinity.
Well, as soon as I'm caught up that is.. but for sure. I pay back!

Good luck.
Try to follow the schem and layout as much as you can.

_________________
http://pdfelectronics.com

I will. pics to follow as I go. gotta mock up a couple things .. was out of 33uF Caps.
I'll non solder some 22uF in there so I can move along with it.

It would be interesting to hear ans see the results as a VJ converion. We do suggest you make sure the voltage is about at least 400 for the 6l6 tubes.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Will do. gotta make a vj board for a guy and then I'm back in it.
paying the bills. *s*

Ok Camera card crapped out on me so no pics until I get that sorted.

but a brief description.
this vj came with a turretboard, loaded, from Ken Watts.
I depopulated it.
I removed the EL84 socket.

I'm using an Octal chassis mounted on the top.
With the 1" long pins. I enlarged the steel chassis much less and much easier this way.
It clears the standoffs much better on the other side, and the pins stick right through after enlarging
the board hole a little bit.

since it's cramped in there a bit to start with, I insulated all the components off pins 1,2,3, 12AX7 and can run them right around together to the input, etc. and only have to use-maybe-one eyelet.

I'm continuing down the board from the front end, using as few eyelets as I can so I will have the most left for
all the bigger caps,etc.

PT and OT mounted. Output jack(s) are stock vj 4, 8 , 16 ohm.

From a few drawings I made this should work or at least fit.
I will for sure have some pics and then hopefully someone will check and see
that I don't bollox the VRM removal.

Got the Champ done, and a vj and will finish another Plexi SE vj conversion this weekend, by which time I'll
also be at the filter caps and have my pots in.
and then the real fun begins..

Pretty slow progress.. don't mind the goofiness quite yet, just seeing how to combine the Tramp and the VJ.

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Ok, I'm further down the board, and it turns out I have just enough eyelets if I run certain components direct from
the board to the pots etc.

On problem that keeps me on my toes is the layout is reversed and the schematic is reversed from how it all
goes in the vj.
upside down and backwards.
Which makes Homer go D'oh!

The push pulls I think I just turn the page upside down..except then it's left is right and right is left.
but I should be ok.

the input jack is also kinda funky that way.

I'm going to use the stock power switch so it has a light.

I'll solder to the board and then pull it and turn it over for the wires beneath.
then I'll do the heaters.
And I have to refigure the PT wiring.
and add another bolt for ground. Have on for the preamp grounds.

I seem to not have anything smaller 1KuF and only in 35V. Hope I ordered one.

Pretty soon I'll get a pic of the thing again.. and then I'll be into the no VRM bit and that's where I'm anticipating some confusion.

I'll also move the output jack ground wire off the IEC grnd bolt
and clip it short and move it to the chassis near the jacks.
and more to figure out on the 6L6 sockets.
argh.. a lot to do!

would a 1KuF 35V work for the 50V?

I have a bunch of radial electrolytics in that that value.
I have some 470uf 50V, too.

more pics... still just laying it out.. but getting along.
had to take a break before I tried to over under sideways down the switches

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ooops. got a 300pF instead of 500pF cap in there.
wonder eyes, they call me.

Drivin me bats but getting along. If you see anything wired wrong, give a shout.
Still in the scotch tape and mock up phase but getting the idea of it.

I look at the schematic and the input seems right.. I look at the layout and it seems wrong.

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have a feeling the PT wiring and filter caps area is gonna be hard..leaving out the VRM is not shining light
in my little brain

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I'll put a panel over this to cover it nice

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finally back to it.
all parts in, just a few more wires.
pt wired up. ot almost.

gotta change 750R to 330R 5W.
still a few wires to go before I start at the beginning and check for cont. ohms, etc.

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just a couple more hook ups then point by point compare to schematic.
here's where the gross errors are taunted by the dumb errors.

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Ok finally all in and checked. will try the bulb limiter test tomorrow.

made a lot of changes to the power section
front pwr grnd bolt
separate IEC grnd bolt
star grnd for pre
and separate grnd for OT

dumped the vrm 220K bleeder, and got some help figuring out the first dropping resistor
was in fact a dropping resistor.

put it on the bulb limiter.. tubes out.. passed fine.
tubes in, same test, still fine.
so the power section is ok.

however, before I tested voltages I plugged a guitar in for 30 seconds
and I got signal with all pots down.
volume that was there was light and fizzy
master volume worked backwards.

So.. gotta go through the front end again.
I got something in there bass ackwards.