trinityamps.com

Hi!

This is my third build ever, but by far the most ambitious for my level of knowledge.

I’ve got some Measurement questions: I've watched this before a couple years ago but haven't actually done it. I'm going to build a bulb limiter first, use one hand approach, etc.

When measuring voltages, I assume I attach my Dmm black lead to the chassis in every instance described below?

When measuring for 6.3AC filament voltage, I assume I can attach my red lead to the heater jumper for the socket being checked? ie. the jumper from 4-5 for v1, v2, v3 and the jumper from 1-8 for v4, v5?

Checking for B+ at the OT on all primary taps: Is this checked at the 6v6/6l6 toggle lugs? And this is A/C, correct?

Where do I physically touch the lead for measuring the bias pot negative voltage?

Checking high voltage DC at filter caps... That's the positive side of the large black 500v caps on the eyelet board, correct? Ie. B+1 should measure 445 dc, etc.

Where do I measure plate resistor dc high voltage? On the anode lugs? I’m leery to measure pins directly because of proximity to the other lugs.

Using the voltage chart ( 2 charts, one for 6V6, one for 6L6) in build guide and layout sheet, check AC voltages where the the 2 red wires from XFMR attach to the 6 diodes (the diodes rectify AC to DC) you can test with both probes on AC setting OR ground to chassis and + probe, but you'll only get 1/2 the AC voltage, the single red wire at the other end of the diodes should be measured using DC setting on your DMM (ground to chassis and red probe to point being tested)and all other voltages (B+ and various tube pins). Also, the little square boxes by the various tubes and eyelets in the layout indicate DC voltage you should see at those points. Short answer (usually) before the diodes AC, after DC. Hope this is somewhat clearer than mud.

_________________
"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"