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Went through the testing on p. 29 of the guide and got 650 VAC on pins 4,6 of the rectifier (tube not installed), and even worse, my amp keeps tripping the circuit breaker after about 90 seconds (sometimes less). Here are some pics (please let me know if you need different shots) and any advice appreciated. Rest of the socket voltage readings called for were all high but by only between .2 and 1 VAC).

Well, this has at least helped me spot some PT miswiring. Looks like I've got the black/white 110V wire connected with the 120V black/red to the power switch when it should be tied off. Then I've got the white/red 120V wire not connected to anything when it should be with the black/red 120V lead on the power switch. Guess I just needed a break and some fresh eyes. Sheesh.

For 120V check that:

PRIMARY
Black/Red connected and twisted to White/Red goes to switch
Black connected and twisted to White goes to Neutral on IEC socket

Black/White and White Black not used

SECONDARY
Solid Yellow and Yellow/White wires go to 5V rectifier
Solid Green Wires got to heaters
Solid Red wires go to HV on rectifier
Green/Yellow and Red/Yellow go to chassis power ground

White wire not used

As drawn on layout.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Thanks. Fixed the mistakes and it's no longer tripping the breaker. Now I need to see if I've fried my meter somewhere on this journey, as it's acting strange.

Check your batteries!

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Spoke too soon. Left the amp on a while and it tripped the breaker again. Plus it was on long enough that I noticed the PT got hot, as in it warmed up the nearby chassis enough that I would not have wanted to leave my hand on it for more than a few seconds. That can't be right. Or good. Do I have a bad PT? This is really bumming me out now.

I'm glad that Stephen has stepped in to assist and you are right to be frustrated.

There is still some elimination to do to find issue and to isolate the other components.

It is a little hard to tell from photos of course but it looks like some of the exposed ends of your heater wires to other tubes may be at risk of contact with the socket mounting screws.

Cut that white wire off of the terminal strip that says 6.3V and shrink tube end off and tie out of way. I looked at my amp photos and though is hard to tell from layout unless looking close should be to a 'dead' terminal on strip or cut and isolated. Once I looked I remember that I had accidentally put on grounded terminal and turned on amp but it never hurt anything like you are experiencing. Do it anyways cuz Stephen said so.

Isolation of other components at this point requires removing any wires other than the primary ones going into the transformer but be very cautious as now you have all of these wires hanging around loose so make certain that they are insulated.

If it was me I would actually pull the PT and mount it outside the chassis on a piece of plywood and have it connected to a fuse and switch that I trust away from everything else (I have rigged up a setup for similar purpose in past) and check all of the wires individually but it takes a little effort to do this. This however eliminates any of the other components (socket, switches, lamps or anything down stream) and can help isolate the PT as the problem.

You can remove the white wire from the lamp to eliminate that as a suspect as it crosses the circuit.

You can remove the other wires one at a time (other than the switch until last) as well.

It really does bother me however that you are tripping the house breaker and not the fuse in the amp. The amp fuse is only 2 but the house mains on 110-120V are usually 15A or 20A. I assume you are in Canada or US or course.

Here are some pics of a simple test for your AC socket to ensure polarity as well. I have a simple tester now but we fried an old PA power amp our keyboardist had after linking to main PA because of an improperly wired socket at an old pub once so I always check now. You can see where you should have 120V and where not to. Keep in mind you will NOT get this result on a GFCI socket or socket wired to a GFCI circuit (there will be NO 120V to ground) and will require a tester for that (<$10) which is easier. (Photo included)

I only suggest this as a way of eliminating problems at the source and is good to know. FYI the thing that is plugged into the bottom outlet of socket is my TC15.

Cut the white wire off of the terminal strip that says "6.3V," remove the end of the shrink tube, and tie it out of the way. I looked at the pictures of my amp and thought that it would be hard to tell from the layout if it wasn't connected to a "dead" terminal on the strip or had been cut and isolatedOnce I looked, I remembered that I had put the grounded terminal on the amp and turned it on by accident, but it never hurt like what you are feeling. Stephen said to do it anyway, so do it.
To isolate the other parts at this point, you need to remove any wires that aren't the primary ones going into the transformer. Be careful, though, because you now have a lot of loose wires hanging around, so make sure they are insulated.
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