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Check that your one of your heater wires are not soldered to a lug that goes to ground. It's hard to tell in the picture. The rest looks good.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Looks like it to me too, don't use the middle tag of that strip unless you need a ground.

Heater tag board wiring error corrected.

I want to finish this amp up, but I have a few more questions. The kit came with two types of shielded wire of different lengths. The shorter cable has a ground and center core. I'm having trouble stripping the center core because it has some sort of thread material wrapped around the wire. So what is the proper way to strip this cable? Since it is short I suspect this is the wire for the TMB volume pot to V2. On the layout there is no ground to pin 2 on V2. Do I just snip that wire off or tie it to the center core? The info in the builders guide only talks about the TMB wiring to V1 with tagboard.

The second cable is longer. It has three wires. One solid core un-insulated (ground?), insulated blue and red wires. I'm assuming this is the input wire. Do I just tie the blue and red together? Again, the layout shows no ground connection to V1. The other problem is that I don't think there is enough to wire up all the inputs. I haven't cut or soldered yet, just tried to ballpark lengths. If I need more insulated wire what gauge, type should I be looking for? Ratshack is right down the street.

The ohm selector switch. Is it OK to just randomly select any of the center most lugs and then solder the pole lugs accordingly? I have S2 trannies and am going by the 5A diagram on page 32 of the build guide.
Also, the page 32 diagram of the ohm output switch jack wiring differs from the layout. Which should I follow or does it make a difference?

Thanks to everybody, especially Stephen, for getting me through this, almost complete first build. I have checked, double checked, re-checked my double checks along the way. I took my sweet time because I really want this thing to fire up when done. I hope it does. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks again,
Joe

Joe,

The grey shielded wire is for the Volume pot to V2 connection.

One 3 wire cable [un-insulated (yes this is ground), insulated blue and red wires] is required for each channel. Only two lengths are required. Do you have enough for two?

The center core of the grey cable has a fabric mesh around it. Just push it back then pull it away from the wire and cut it off with your wire cutters or scissors.

I have tried various cable material. I have settled on the grey cable for now. If more is required, you can use the cable from a low cost RCA audio cable set from the local 5 & dime.

There is no ground to pin 2 on V2 so 'cleanly' cut the ground off. Dont let it touch anything. I will need to update the info in the builders guide to talk about the sIII wiring to V2.


To wire the impedance [ohm selector] switch. You can just randomly select any of the center most lugs and but you HAVE TO MAKE sure that you solder the corresponding pole lugs. The terminal are in sets of 3.

For the output jack wiring - follow the layout. I'll make the doc consistent, although it doesn't matter in this case.

Good luck!

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I have plenty for two. So the blue wire would go to the hi and the red to the lo of each channel input? And the ground wire at the tube end gets snipped? I think this is what you're saying.

.

the color doesnt matter, but it's good to be consistent with hi & lo. Yes, snip the ground at the tube end. Make sure it's not touching anything.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I was ready to wire the input jacks and OT/OHM selector hookup when I got home from work. That was it. All that was left to do. ARGH!!!!!

Despite my instructions not to clean my desk the cleaning lady kindly tidied up in my den (the shop). My desk is now very neatly organized. All my parts are in a row. How can I tell the difference between the switched and unswitched jacks? On visual inspection I have four that are marked with a 3, one with a 2, and one with a 4. I know the input jacks are switched. Continuity test does not seem to help.

I also had two underboard wires break off when trying to solder them to tube sockets. I attached new wire directlty to the turrets. Hope that is ok...?

Joe

All the jacks that are supplied are switched Cliff Jacks. The have 4 terminals and a contact between them on one side of the jack body.

Wiring connecting wires directly to the tube sockets is not a problem.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Well, only the hi input on the TMB channel works. I guess I'll have to go over the jack wiring again.

The other weird thing is that I get loud crackling after the amp has warmed up. It is not affected by the pots. Whent this happens and I hit the standby switch there is a pop.

The whole chassis is microphonic on the pre side. It decreases as you move towards the PT. I did try moving the pre amp tubes around...no difference.

Thoughts??

BTW, the TMB hi input sounds killer.

Yes, these can sometimes get confusing.



Reflow your solder joints to make sure they are solid on the tubes, then components. Spounds like a cold solder joint. Look for dull solder joints.



Test each tube for microphonics. Tap with a pencil & listen. Put the least microphonic in V1 etc.



That's good news anyway!

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Both inputs on the TMB side are now working. Cold solder on v1 for the low input. The normal channel is still without a heartbeat. I think that may be a ground issue.

I reflowed all the joints on the tube sockets and the board and the crackling problem is still there. I've narrowed it down to v2. When the popcorn started I jiggled tubes and v2 is the culprit.

Still getting the pop on the standby switch. Could this be related to the v2 problem?

I will try to post some detailed pics this weekend after some more troubleshooting.

Joe

Try this to eliminate the pop. viewtopic.php?p=4514#4514

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Will a 1/4 watt 100k resistor in v2 work? My crackle problem was one of the resistor legs broken off. I have a bag full of ratshack 1/4 watt carbon film resistors on hand.

Good detective work there!!!

I would not use a 1/4 watt there. Use a 1/2 watt carbon film instead.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Both channels and all four inputs now work. The normal channel is definitely grittier then the TMB side. All the tone controls are subtle but smooth. Using an American deluxe tele these were my settings on the TMB side.

Master - 9
Volume - 4
Treble - 6
Middle - 6
Bass - 4.5

Dirty yet very articulate and touch sensitive. Cleans up wonderfully with the guitar volume knob.

The normal channel was at about 9 with the tone at 5. Don't know what to say about the normal channel except that it is NASTY.

I need to try it with my Lester next.

I would describe the overall sound as bright and tight. Part of this could be due to my new Avatar cabinet. It is loaded with G12H 30's which need to be broken in.

I haven't played it for more then 10 minutes yet. The crackling has reared its ugly head again, but at least I know she works. Guess I have to chase down another cold solder.

Thanks again Stephen!

Joe

Wait till you try it jumpered lovely build btw.
Nigel

Thanks...not too sure about the lovely build part though. Got a little sloppy when wiring everything up. I had three of the underboard wires break off so I had to solder right on the turrets. Getting the right wire lengths for the input jacks to fit semi-neatly was a bit of a bitch. Yada, yada.

Other than the mysterious cold joint the amp is very quiet. I still have to finish the 4 and 16 ohm hookups and tidy up the wiring, but that's it. Yeah, I may have to build another one. I'm a perfectionist and this thing, IMHO, could be alot neater. I still have alot to learn.

BTW, what I really like abot this amp is that it doesn't color the sound of the guitar you are playing. A Tele is a Tele. A Paul is a Paul. The sIII/18watt is not another instrument, but a great conduit for the sound of the particular guitar you are playing.

I'm almost ashamed to post this pic

Hey Joe, the settings you are using on the TMB channel are among my favourite for just the reasons you mentioned (touch sens etc...). If you want more grit from the TMB channel try this.

Master - 3
Volume - 10
Treble - 3
Middle - 10
Bass - 3-5

The tone will be a little more compressed and will unleash some nasty ass mids all over your nasty self.....especially with a lester although that tele of yours would like it too.

Cheers
LBET

I haven't played with the amp since the crackle started. When I did play it I was really impressed with how it lets the character of the guitar come through. The whole 18watt family of amps seem to be great conduits for a guitars specific sound.

I'm thinking about my next build and I'm curious. How would you describe the differences between the sIII, TMB, and the Lightning?

Cheers,
Joe