trinityamps.com

Yes, your output jacks are wired backwards, the black (common) should be going to the sleave of the jack and the orange and green to the 4 and 8 Ohm tips respectivly. You may find that you can reduce hum by wiring your input jacks using shielded cable and I noticed from the layout I have that Stephen uses shorting jack sockets on the input.
Nigel

I rewired the output jacks and inputs jacks (the inputs are wired the same, just with better wire) and still don't have sound. I checked voltages on the heaters, and they're good. I don't believe my voltages match the hi-voltage graphic when it comes to the large capacitors or rectifier. Per that diagram, this is what I'm getting when I touch the positive leads, from left to right:

22uF: 380 vdc
33 uF: 0
33 uf: 420 vdc
22 uF: 0
22uF: 410 vdc
33 uF: 420 vdc

The caps in italics are all tied to that one point at the 33uF by resistors. That's the only point I get a reading on them.

Rectifier:
Pin 2: 420 vdc
Pin 4: 420 vac
Pin 6: 300 vac
Pin 8: 400 vdc

From what I could see there was nothing wrong with your input jacks so you will need to swap those back. Next you need to measure the DC voltages you are getting on the pins 1,6,3 & 8 of your 12AX7 tubes then pins 3 and 7 of the EL84s being careful not to short any of them while you do it. I am shure Stephen has a voltage chart somewhere? for you to compare to yours. Pins 1 & 6 of the 12AX7 tubes and pin 7 of the EL84 should be high voltage and the others much lower. Re-check the voltages of the filter caps that show 0V at the turret they attach, if they are still showing 0V check your soldering there.
Nigel

Some voltages for reference. There are measured with tubes in place.


Pin| 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
---+-----------------------------------------------
V1 | 144 --- 1.36 --- --- 144 0 1.36 ---
V2 | 162 --- 1.28 --- --- 280 162 160 ---
V3 | 239 41.6 64.8 --- --- 253 44.7 64.7 ---
V4 | --- --- 8.5 --- --- --- 359 --- 251
V5 | --- --- 8.5 --- --- --- 358 --- 253
V6 | --- --- --- --- --- --- --- 361 ---

You should have voltages at every pin. Start from the 33 on the end and read them across. You should have at first 33uF cap= B+ = 340-360 V DC with tubes installed. Then measure the rest.
22=
22=
33=
22=
22=

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help guys. I know you don't have to help me, so every bit is very appreciated.

So far my voltages are way off everywhere except the heaters on V1-V5. All the tubes were installed.

Pin| 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
---+-----------------------------------------------
V1 | 0 0 0 3ac 3ac 0 0 0 3ac
V2 | 0 0 0 3ac 3ac 0 0 0 3ac
V3 | 0 0 0 3ac 3ac 0 0 0 3ac
V4 | --- 0 380 3ac 3ac --- 420 0 410
V5 | --- 0 380 3ac 3ac --- 420 0 410
V6 | --- 420 --- 300ac --- 300ac --- 420

33= 420
22= 420
33= 0
22= 0
22= 0
22= 380

I'm attaching an image of my caps. You can see that the middle 22 is slightly different than the Trinity layout in that it connects to a separate turret. That turret is connected to the turret above it (with the red choke wire) via a wire underneith the board. I get a reading from the turret above, but not when I touch the cap itself. I imagine this is reading the voltage flowing in from the choke. When I touch the positive leads of those three caps, I don't get a voltage.

I'm giving myself a hair of grace on my voltage readings. I bought an analogue meter, and it doesn't give readings much finer than 10's. 310, 320, etc.

JamesO,

Ok, all the 22K resistors have to be connected at one point. The point where the choke returns - i.e. the red wire. That will make the difference. Take a look at the 15 picture in thie .

http://www.trinityamps.com/ForumGallery ... dePics.pdf

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

If it's really this simple, I'll dance with joy

EDIT: I changed the resistors and that capacitor to the correct turret. I have voltages! I still don't have anything other than the heaters on V1 and still don't have sound. Here are the new voltages:

Pin| 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9
---+-----------------------------------------------
V1 | 0 0 0 3ac 3ac 0 0 0 3ac
V2 | 190 0 0 3ac 3ac 310 180 180 3ac
V3 | 250 1 65 3ac 3ac 0 1 65 3ac
V4 | --- 0 360 3ac 3ac --- 410 0 400
V5 | --- 0 360 3ac 3ac --- 410 0 400
V6 | --- 420 --- 300ac --- 300ac --- 420

33= 410
22= 400
33= 370
22= 410
22= 310
22= 370

Resolder that jumper. You say there is a jumper underneath, but it cant be making good contact. Oh, an make sure the ground end of all those caps are grounded. I cant see if they are.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Looks like you are getting there, you will have it singing pretty soon now.
Nigel

Yes, I'm definitely enjoying the process

I can see your problem with V1, you have a missing wire between the 0.0015uf cap and pin 1 of V1 and a missing connector between he 25uF electrolytic and pin 3 of V1 so you have no power being applied to V1 at all. Looks like you might have a missing connection on pin 3 of V2 as well, it would do well to look at all your board to tube socket connections as a double check.
Nigel

A week ago my amp was completely decked out in cloth covered wire. With two wires to go, it's now almost entirely rewired. lol... Tonight's the night.

Good Luck! put some more pictures up when you are done.
Nigel

Well, I still don't have anything. The closest thing I get is a speaker buzz when I touch pin 7 of V4. Now what are we thinking? My voltages are below the pics.

Full size jpg of my wiring: http://languagepool.net/amp/wiringFull.jpg (300ish kb)

Inputs:


Outputs:


Pin| 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9
---+-----------------------------------------------
V1 | 130 0 1.1 3ac 3ac 130 0 1.2 3ac
V2 | 205 0 1 3ac 3ac 150 180 185 3ac
V3 | 250 25 140 3ac 3ac 260 1 70 3ac
V4 | --- 0 25 3ac 3ac --- 405 --- 400
V5 | --- 0 25 3ac 3ac --- 405 --- 400
V6 | --- 420 --- 300ac --- 300ac --- 420

33= 400
22= 395
33= 360
22= 400
22= 300
22= 370[/url]

These are the tube voltages that seem to be off.

V2: pin 1, 6, 7, 8
V3: pin 2, 3, 7
V4/V5: pin 3, 7, 9

Can you do another full gut shot high resolution James.
Nigel

There we go - I didn't write the full path in the link to the image. It works now.

First look says you have missed a ground on the 120Ohm/15W resistor and 220uF cap coming form the cathodes of the EL84s. I also don't like the idea of the wires to your cut control crossing the high voltage area, that is almost asking for hum. It would possibly be worth disconnecting the cut while you diagnose the rest. I am also concerned that the 100 Ohm grid resistors on the EL84s are connected to power on the centre lug of the terminal strip, are you sure that it is not also going to ground? my three lug strips get anchored by the centre lug. If this is the case you will need to move them to one of the outside lugs.
Nigel

I want to see how the cut works out. I'm worried about hum too, but have a little hesitence to add another knob to my face plate. I'm not totally sure what to do with it yet, but we'll see.

Thanks for the heads ups on the grounds. The resistors aren't connected to the ground - that strip's right next to them.

I'm an elementary teacher by day, and this is the first week of school. I'm whipped! I'm going to go fire up the soldering iron again. My solders were initially very nice looking, but now I've soldered and relocated things so much, some look horrendous. But if it all works, that's what I'm after.