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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 11:16 am 
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joeyvelour wrote:
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How about a dual concentric pot in one of the volume control positions? The knob would be different, but no mods to the chassis.

That's what's being tested in the 15 right now.
Coco wrote:
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In this one, we tried our switched 1M pot to replace the power switch on the front.

Later


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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:05 pm 
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I was thinking of a dual-stacked pot like the old stereo balance controls, rather than a pot with a push-pull switch on the back. Not very feasible with chicken head knobs, or at least I've never seen a split chicken head knob. It's still not a great "add-on" solution anyway, and there is still no good position logistically or electrically to put a double pot that makes sense. Square one!

Joe

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:21 pm 
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I just took a look at the TC-15 layout drawing. You have the master volume pot right there next to the power supply and it's 1 meg. Why not replace it with a stacked 1 meg pot, top half for the master volume and the bottom half for the VRM? On the panel it would be center knob is master volume, outer ring for the VRM. Butt-ugly looking knob but the price we pay for functionality!

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 3:51 pm 
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why not just use a pot that you'd turn all the way to the left to turn off with a click. click it to the right to turn on. turn it all the way up for full on. i cant' think of the name of the knob right now. kinda like a light dimmer switch that has a knob.

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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 8:58 pm 
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The question is: Where do you put the VRM pot on a V6 (especially on a combo) without messing with the faceplate? The back panel is a decent location for the head version, but the pot would be hanging down into the speaker area for a combo. Not so practical, and it sure doesn't look like you have a lot of room on a V6 with all of those tubes across the back/bottom.

What I'm reading and seeing on the test TC-15 above, the boys pulled the power switch and installed a 1M pot with a push/pull switch in it's place. A pot for the VRM and a push/pull switch to turn the amp on and off, still labeled "Power". I suggested (for the TC-15) leaving the power switch in place and replacing the master volume pot with a double stacked (dual concentric) 1M pot instead, half for master volume and the other half for the VRM. This may work for the V6 as well, but the master volume control is out in the middle of the faceplate rather than at the power supply end like the TC-15. Would there be noise issues running the VRM wiring past the tone pots? Can it be a shielded run to the VRM pot? Questions for the boss. I can see that this would make installation a drag as an add-on to an already built amp, and like I said previously, the knob would have to change to a inner/outer type knob of some kind. Something else to ponder...
My brain is tired now!

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:55 am 
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If I understand the VRM correctly that pot along with another resistor, is across the rectifier output! You should probably use a good 2 watt Mil Spec pot here. ....least I would. :wink:
Stew


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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 9:42 am 
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Stoo wrote:
If I understand the VRM correctly that pot along with another resistor, is across the rectifier output! You should probably use a good 2 watt Mil Spec pot here. ....least I would. :wink:
Stew


Wish it was that simple but there is a zener and mosfet in this circuit.

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 2:27 pm 
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coco wrote:
Stoo wrote:
If I understand the VRM correctly that pot along with another resistor, is across the rectifier output! You should probably use a good 2 watt Mil Spec pot here. ....least I would. :wink:
Stew


Wish it was that simple but there is a zener and mosfet in this circuit.

:oops: Of course you are correct Stephen!! But I mean as far as the pot is concerned. There will be several hundreds of volts across it..no?
Stew


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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 3:12 pm 
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With the high resistamnce (1M) and even assuming a 350 V drop, we're only talking 0.1 watt. So aa 1M Audio .25 watt should do.

So far no issues with that size. :D

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:58 am 
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drwx wrote:
it could go in the 2nd output. i don't really have much need for 2 outputs right now. my cabinet has 2 jacks, so i can daisy chain there if i want to use 2 cabs.


Not a bad idea but kind of close to lots of noisy wires. Not tested it there

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 6:50 am 
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coco wrote:
drwx wrote:
it could go in the 2nd output. i don't really have much need for 2 outputs right now. my cabinet has 2 jacks, so i can daisy chain there if i want to use 2 cabs.


Not a bad idea but kind of close to lots of noisy wires. Not tested it there


what if shielded wires were used just to go to the pot?

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 7:21 am 
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You can try that. You need 3 conductors and then ground the shield.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:29 am 
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What do you think would work better noise-wise... extending and shielding the pot wiring or the B+ wiring? For my purposes I would like to see a VRM pot/switch replace the "boost" switch, like the guys did on that TC-15 previously except on the rear panel. Turn for VRM adjustment, push-pull for boost. It's a long way to that side of the chassis though...
Another option might be to use a trim pot adjustment for the VRM, maybe on the VRM board itself, then run just a small toggle in/out switch to kick in the pot setting. A bit less convenient if you adjust this all the time, but maybe good enough if you only use the VRM for say a typical low-power setting for the bedroom, kick it out when the drummer shows up.
More food for thought...

Joe G

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:34 am 
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I have the Trinity Deluxe. Ideally, I think the VRM would just replace the standby switch.


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 10:52 am 
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From a wiring perspective, the standby switch is certainly ideal. If it's a combo, the player is generally the only one to see the panel anyway. Just make sure you tell your drummer to never touch that knob...EVER!

Joe G

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 2:20 pm 
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I was jamming with lbet when he was trying the prototype VRM on his sIII and he was tinkering with it all the time (his was on the back of his head). Granted, you might not as much as he, but that's why I wanted to put it on the control panel for my TC-15.

JP


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 2:21 pm 
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My sometimes drummer is also the sound guy, so, thanks for the advice. :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 3:27 pm 
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Sorry. I've had it in for drummers ever since mine unplugged the cab on my Bandmaster Reverb to fix a stage curtain or something and toasted my OT. Nice discovery as we started the next set. Nice smell, too!

Joe G

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