trinityamps.com

From a reliability and serviceability point of view, I would greatly recommend folks to run all link wires on the upper side of the eyelet board, rather than underneath.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Not a bad suggestion but I have not had any issues running them underneath.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Nor have I, so it's not something I would insist on. However, I think it's a real good idea as it (a) reduces the possibility of a connection falling off under the board and (b) makes the problem both easier to find and way easier to fix, if ever that does happen. If you think about it, these are scenarios that a new builder is more likely to encounter than an experienced builder.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Not a bad idea to run wires above ground, maybe more so for new builders. If you do go underneath the board I like to wrap the wire through the eyelet and then over a bit, kinda like a semi-circle. Provides a more sturdy connection that isnt too likely to fail/fall when the eyelet needs desoldering.

But were getting OT here...

Chassis look good!

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http://pdfelectronics.com

Also makes it easier for the inexperienced to damage the insulation when soldering in other components and for component leads to melt through insulation while soldering becoming a hidden failure.
Pros and cons to both sides.
I do it both ways and with turrets I drill another hole and thread it through for soldering to the turret

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Fantasy Noise is what my shop of dreams is called and was the only way to beat my addiction, like many here I suffer from G.A.S.


Tele's make the best noise

There only seem to be 8 simple wires and then about three little uncovered jumpers. It seems like it should be pretty easy to get nice, solid connections even if gravity works a tad against you down the road. Besides, a few of the wires are supported by at least one other wire.


FWIW, looking sweet!

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Go Buckeyes!

This is a good build topic for the 'Dressing Room'.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Well, I was actually talking about building the Tramp board here.


The link wires can be routed so they don't lie too close to other eyelets. And if they do hit problems, they're easier to fix. Plus it's also easier to see from posted pictures on the forum if anything is wrong.

Until I did the Triwatt, I used to run link wires underneath the board too. Studying how Dave Reeves built his amps was a revelation. Then a few months ago, Stephen and I were trying to fix problems in another amp someone had built with a lot of connections under the board where we couldn't see them, and the stiffness of all the connecting wires to the board also made it impossible to move the board so we could get at any of the connections underneath. After that, I made a personal vow to never, ever build an amp that way again.

But like I said, this is purely a recommendation, and nothing more than that....

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

I do like the idea of running the wires on top of the board, but I don't like it with an eyelet board. With turrets it would be a great idea, and practically no worries about burning through insulation as the wires could be mounted to the base of the turret with the components to the top. I like to have some separation.

I'm not a huge fan of eyelets in general. I much prefer turrets, preferably double turrets. I find them much easier to work with and easier to maintain. Purely personal preference there.

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SG + Brit tube head = Nirvana

Moved as promised.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Putting jumpers on top of eyelets look shesty as hell. Put them underneath, if there is a problem later on down the road remove the ones underneath (easy to do) and install some on the top.

If you install the jumpers with mechanical connections (not just relying on the solder ) the jumpers wont come loose though.

It's easy to use a DMM and a continuity tester to check if the jumpers are there, so having them visible isnt such an advantage.

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http://pdfelectronics.com

Welcome to the "light side" Phil

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Just from a "wow I can see how this works, it finally looks like the schematic.." point of view, I love the idea of putting wires on top.