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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:35 pm 
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Hello all,
I have been reading the forums here off and on here for the last few years, and decided to take the plunge with the Tramp a few weeks ago. Like Sergelac I was planning on two-stroke project, but then this Tramp came along.
The cabinet is done. I had a local cabinet builder custom build it(i don't know if I am allowed to mention the company?). Solid pine with dovetail joints, it is as solid as a tank. He did a really nice job on it. I stained it with early American stain with clear gloss polyurethane.
I decided on the Tone Tubby 8" alnico and a Celestion 10" Greenback combo. I have them wired so that I can use them independently at 8 ohms or together at 4 ohms.
These forums have been a great help. I am a complete newbie at this. I have the amp completed, but I am having some issues. I am checking everything over and hoping I will have success soon.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:16 pm 
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Can you post some pictures or detail the problems so we can help you out?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Certainly, right now I have no output. Please forgive me as I am a rookie.
Perhaps this post will be a good reference for others.


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Last edited by KingCrimson on Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Can you get some more closeups, less flash, macro setting? It's kinda hard to tell whats going on in there.

I'd start by working through the layout, crossing off wires on the layout as you check the build to make sure they are correct. You could shorten up/re-route some of the runs while you do this.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:25 am 
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Are you getting power to the tubes & is it adjustable with the Level control?

If so, set to to 400 B+ and measure the DC Voltages against the layout. Let us know the results.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 7:53 am 
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With no tubes installed, the power level does not change at the first filter cap. I get no DC voltage at the first cap. Only the second cap has voltage applied.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:46 am 
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KingCrimson wrote:
With no tubes installed, the power level does not change at the first filter cap. I get no DC voltage at the first cap. Only the second cap has voltage applied.

Check your jumpers then. Use the continuity function on your DMM.

With no tubes (no load essentially) the VRM will do nothing and behave kinda weird. Put tubes in and check it again.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:10 am 
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OK. With the tubes in, still no change with the VRM. The tube heaters do work though.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:23 am 
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Did you insulate the MOSFET from the chassis? Sounds like you need to go back to basics and check the power supply wiring.
If you didnt insulate the MOSFET, it's probably pooched. Need some close up/aerial views of the power end of the amp.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:53 pm 
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I installed the insulator between the mosfet and the chassis. I also smeared them with dielectric grease.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:07 pm 
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Looks like your 6L6/6V6 switch may be wrong. The impedance rotary switch also looks to have the NFB wire (the orange wire running in the air from one side to the other) hardwired right to one of the secondary taps.

I'd check your jumpers as well, they can be easy to miss. Though you have some suspect joints and possible shorts (hard to tell, espically around the PP pots) there is no obvious errors.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:11 pm 
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KingCrimson wrote:
I also smeared them with dielectric grease.


That grease may not be a good thing. Those grey Sil Pads are not designed to have grease on them and some dielectric grease (as in for CPUs) is conductive. Besides kurtlives comments, suggest you check on that.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:10 pm 
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I connected the NFB wire to the 8 ohm tap. Is that incorrect?
I might be able to get another Mosfet this afternoon. I'll try switching that out first.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:15 pm 
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.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:00 pm 
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Wire as per the layout / schematic. The 8 ohm tap will have a signal on it even when it is not connected to a speaker. Feedback is designed to work off the 8 ohm tap. Same as on the TRIWATT, JTM45 etc.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:44 pm 
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I found that the 100 ohm - 5 watt resistor was faulty. I replaced it and all is well.
I am really enjoying this amp. It is very quiet for a tube amp. The amp is full of amazing tones. I highly recommend it!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:59 pm 
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KingCrimson wrote:
I found that the 100 ohm - 5 watt resistor was faulty. I replaced it and all is well.


Excellent News. You've been quiet and I was getting concerned. This is a good advertisement for people to check the parts befoe they install - some advice I should take as well. That would have neve been my suspicion but I'm really glad it worked out. Good troubleshooting for a rookie!!!

KingCrimson wrote:
I am really enjoying this amp. It is very quiet for a tube amp. The amp is full of amazing tones. I highly recommend it!!!


This is algo great news. Wonder how the Alnico TT is in that size? I have one too but havent used it yet. Was that with the 6V6 or have you moved into the 6L6 - more great tones BTW.

Keep us up to ddate with your experiences!

Again, congrats to you!! 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Thanks Stephen, and thanks for all your help.
I really like the sound of the TT. I was concerned it was going to be too bright but it is just right. It sounds great alone or together with the Celestion.
I've tried the 6L6 and a 6V6. I haven't decided which one I prefer. I think I have a KT66 around. I'll try that next.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:09 pm 
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KingCrimson wrote:
It is very quiet for a tube amp.

I assume you don't mean in terms of loudness. :lol: At Trinity we design tube amps to be real quiet in terms of hum and buzz, etc. :D

KingCrimson wrote:
I think I have a KT66 around. I'll try that next.

I think it's time we worked out the correct value of cathode bias resistor to use for KT66s....

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:51 am 
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That would be nice! :thumbsup:


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