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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:58 am 
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I'm finally nearing completion of my TC-15 combo cabinet and was making sure the chassis fit after I had all the bracing installed in the box. I threw on the faceplate, holding it on with a few pots and I went to mount the transformers to make sure they clear everything. Here's were the uncertainty arose.
The power transformer has four bolts that appear to hold the bell housing on the unit. These bolts have four nuts holding them in place. If I leave the nuts on, the transformer does not sit flush with the chassis. Is this intended? Or should I remove the nuts so the transformer is seated in its hole. I see pictures on the site that appear to have it both ways. I'm assuming that the transformer will not fall apart or unlaminate if these nuts are removed in order to fasten it in place.
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:40 am 
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Doesn't really matter, you can do it both ways (I have).

As long as you tighten the bolts on the underside firmly your transformer wont be going anywhere.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:50 am 
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From an EMI/RFI perspective (in both directions) I would think that mounting the transformer down flush to the chassis with no gap would be a better scenario.
Sort of a moot point I suppose if the chassis is typically open on one side anyway.

Joe G

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:32 pm 
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We remove the nuts so the transformer is seated in its hole. The transformer will not fall apart or unlaminate if they are removed.
But I have also done it both ways.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:29 pm 
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Thanks, Stephen. I figured it wouldn't be a problem, but I thought it was worth asking. The manual didn't say one way or the other.

I'm also noticing now that I have the chassis test fit into the cabinet, it looks like the power receptacle was moved and rotated from the way I have seen it in pictures of previous builds. It appears that the wood bracing that allows the back panels to be fastened to the cabinet now interferes with the receptacle and the power cord. Were you aware of this?

I'll try to attach a picture of what I'm talking about.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:51 pm 
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In TC15 combo cabinet, we had to make some changes to suit. Here is the back and control panel. Notice how the panel is longer at the ends? That's to accommodate the tubes & cords in this cabinet design.
Hope this helps.

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp30 ... Medium.jpg

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:01 pm 
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Thanks, Stephen. I didn't realize the chassis was actually longer. The part I am talking about is here on this picture that I got from your site.
Image

On my chassis, the power receptacle is further toward the edge of the chassis and turned 90 degrees. There is almost zero clearance between it and the wood brace below it.

Question: Could I make a plate to cover that hole and mount the fuse in this position and move the power receptacle to where the fuse hole is currently drilled without risking adding noise to the design?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:14 pm 
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You can do that no problem, or just cut the cleats shorter, increase the gap, and cut the rear panel like the ones in the picture to pick up the cleat.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:21 pm 
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Cool, thanks Stephen. I'll post some pictures soon to show my progress. It's a fun project!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:51 pm 
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FYI, here is a picture I just took of my chassis and the cabinet I build from the plans I got from Stephen.
From inside:
Image

and outside:
Image


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:35 am 
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Looks` like you could shorten those side cleats and change the rear panel to suit.

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