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My voltages have been high from the beginning, I didn't want to mess with it to much because it sounded so good. But the bottom line is its running too hot.
Divide and conquer !
* Power coming from the wall is 121v AC
* 307 v is coming from the power x former to the rectifier.
* Leaving the 32/32 can @ exactly 350v
* At the bank of 22uF 450's as it leads to the other side of the board between the 330k and 2m2 resistors is 332v!!!!
* quite a few voltages across the board are well within the ranges listed.
* unfortunately I do realize why the power tube burnt out and its because I am reading about 363v on pin 7.

Questions
is my output x former in jeopardy ?
would this be the 22uF's as an issue or the 22k 2 watts ?
should the voltage leaving the 32/32 can be 350v?


Things that have happened
1 of the output tubes has burnt out. (replaced)
recently after that ...the power / conviction of the tone has seem to have left the amplifier. Is this my output tranny saying goodbye?

My plan as of now
I believe in short time I am going to rebuild the board and load all sozo caps (i am using one for the .1 cap) and while she was strong enough was sounding AMAZING on the ef86.
In short I was going to re build the board.
In the hope of finding and eliminating the source of the high voltages,,,has anyone seen this issue?
Where and what should I check for?

Thanks in advance...

That 307V coming off the PT is probably not an issue. I don't know if Heyboer lists their voltages under load or not. When the amp is fully on, measure them again, I'd think it will be lower.

That said it's more important that the B+ be right. It should be around 350V DC. Yours is, so your golden!

Measure pin 7 again. You can't magically gain 17V if your B+ is 350V. Maybe you were measuring with no load (no tubes in)?...
But yes this amp does run the output tubes hot so you should make sure your voltages are within range and your using good new tubes. I like JJs for the EL84s myself.

Your caps, resistors and OT are fine. Replace the tubes and check the voltages again. Just do a full check up on the amp really. While your there measure both the 100R 2W resistors and make sure they are ok. They are the screen resistors attached to the screen (pin 7). They may have opened up with the high voltage you had there.

That 330K/2M2 junction has the wrong voltage listed on the layout. Your reading is fine, don't worry. Mine is the same.

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Brand new Matched tubes installed. JJ's (this is what I was running before.
Inserting image this time of my board with numbers pointing toward various areas.
Legend for voltages as follows:
1: 229v
2: 351v
3: 320v
4: 334v
5: 348v
6: 332v
7: 268v
8: 331v
9: 334v

You're saying you've got 351V on Pin 2 - ie the grid??? If so, those tubes would blow up. The grid *must* be at 0V.
Then you're saying the cathode (pin 3) is at 320V!?? That can't be right either. Then the heater pins 4 & 5 are at high voltages too??? This is insane.

Either your readings are wrong, or the pins at your tube sockets are all shorting together.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!