Hi Kurt,
Yes, my dad made me change the capacitors that weren't Sprague on the black board to Sprague (the large blue ones AND the smaller black ones are now all Sprague). Mr. Cohrs told my dad that the orange parts were already made by Sprague. The others were not, so out they went.
My dad said, "If Leo Fender had been Asian, we would have used the other parts..."
But he was from California (so my dad says), so Sprague it is.
The wiring is a completely different story.
I was having a very hard time cutting, stripping, getting the bare wires in the little holes, and bending the wires on the little round tabs on the controls and jacks from inside of the front panel. When my dad held the wires in place so I could solder them, I burned his fingers (not so much fun), or melted the insulation from the wires which you can see on some of the wires that I didn't replace.
I thought, why fight to stuff the controls, jacks, and wires, and try to solder them from inside the metal frame when I can mount the controls upside down on the front of the metal frame and work on, and solder them where I have unlimited space?
I covered the front of the metal frame with masking tape to not scratch it, and mounted the controls and jacks inside out and upside down by tightening the nuts with my fingers. Now I had the parts in the perfect place, in the perfect alignment, with perfect part spacing, and with all of the room I could ever need in which to work. I turned the frame upside down and now with the parts facing out towards me, I could take all of the time in the world to make perfectly neat wire lengths, easy and very neat wire connections, and beautiful solder joints.
Best of all, my dad was able to hold all of the wires with his larger (notice I didn't say fat...) fingers and I didn't burn his fingers anymore with the soldering iron!!!
The last step was to solder a bare wire across the back of the controls to keep them all in perfect alignment so that when I took the nuts off of the inside of the metal frame, the parts would stay aligned and not bend the other wires when I transferred the beautifully wired controls and jacks to the inside of the metal frame and remounted the nuts on the front. I then took the nuts off of the inside of the frame, removed all of the wired controls and jacks as a single assembly, transferred the assembly to the inside of the frame, took off the masking tape, and replaced and tightened the nuts on the outside of the frame with a pliers. I used the blade of a flat screwdriver to tuck the other wires down against the metal frame.
Finally, I took the wire that kept the controls all in alignment during the transfer to the inside of the metal box, and soldered the other end to the metal tab where the other wires are soldered from the controls and jacks. You can see it if you zoom in on the picture on top and look at the top right of the image.
You can see and count all three wires: 1) The green wire that connected the jacks precisely per the instructions 2) The green wire that connected the controls precisely per the instructions 3) The green wire that held all of the controls in perfect alignment when I transferred the controls and jacks as an assembly to the inside of the metal box.
I have to say that the amplifier is amazingly quiet. Dead quiet. But I don't think that my alignment wire is making much difference.
I think the amplifier is exceptional because of Mr. Cohrs design, the incredible quality of the parts that he chose for us, and the original design of the Californian, Leo Fender, who inspired and continues to inspire us all.
Olivia
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