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I'm building the Tweed Deluxe, and just got to mounting the output transformer on the chassis. When I removed the rubber bands that held down the wires, the black wire fell off. It appears to have been crimped or cut where it comes out of the paper cover next to the green wire. Is this repairable, or do I need a replacement?

Thanks!

Update on this. Obviously I needed a new transformer, which Craig did supply.

After installing the new OT, and completing the build I began the startup process, checking voltages with no tubes installed. All seemed ok.

However, the amp blew a fuse as soon as I plugged in the rectifier tube and flipped the standby switch. I took a step back and plugged the amp into a light bulb circuit limiter, after replacing the fuse of course, and repeated the test and the light bulb immediately glowed brightly with the rectifier tube in and the standby switch turned to the on position.

Assuming I have a short somewhere, after carefully reinspecting my work multiple times, I decided to test the Output transformer, still installed and connected in the chassis.

Blue to Red on the primary side reads 170 Ohms. Brown to Red is 150. Brown to Blue is 320. Good so far.
Checking the secondary, Yellow to Black is ~ 1.5 Ohms. Green to Black is ~ 1.

When I measure the Blue or Brown primary to the transformer case I get similar readings as to the Red primary. I also get similar readings from the secondaries to the case as to the black common lead. My understanding is that there should be no continuity (infinite resistance) between the primaries or secondaries and the case.

When I measure either Blue or Brown primary to the yellow secondary I also get similar readings (~170 and ~150). Does this indicate the OT is shorted?

For anyone following this post, I just wanted to give a final update. My measurements were clearly in spec for this particular Trinity custom Heyboer OT. The challenge with measuring resistance between the primary and secondary with the OT installed is that the chassis of the OT is itself grounded to the amp chassis.

As it turns out, my issue had nothing to do with the transformer.

The last step of assembling the circuit board is wiring the red wire from the OT and the DC power wire extending from the Standby switch. To minimize the length of the OT wire to the board, I completed the board except for this final wiring and installed it in the chassis, then placed the wire leads in the eyelet shared with the first 16uf filter cap. Because I usually clip my component leads after soldering, I neglected to clip the positive lead from the filter cap extending below the board before soldering that eyelet with the power wiring. Unsurprisingly this lead was shorting the DC power circuit to ground underneath the board.

I lifted up the board, clipped the lead as I should have done, reinstalled the board, and restarted the amp startup procedure. All voltage readings are now as expected, and I have a gloriously working 5E3 Tweed amp.

Lesson learned.

The red wire from the on-board transceiver (OT) and the DC power wire that extends from the standby switch are connected in assembly order. I finished installing the board in the chassis and connected it to the OT wire so that the wires could be stowed in the eyelet that was shared with the first 16uf filter cap. This was done to keep the length of the wire to the board to a minimum. While connecting the power wire to the eyelet, I failed to clip the positive lead from the filter cap that extended below the board, which is something I normally do after soldering. As expected, this lead was cutting off power to the DC circuit and grounding the board below. geometry dash