trinityamps.com

I've been dabbling in electronics for many years. Did a bunch of Monte Allums pedal mods, upgraded a VHT Special 6 Ultra, and modified 4 Fender Blues Jr's (billm), converted one of them from EL84's to 6v6/5881/6L6. Super fun!

So I figured it was time to do a complete build. I've also began doing more woodworking lately so looking forward to building the head cab and speaker cab; box joints, routing, etc.

I'll try to document this the best I can for posterity and to help other builders... just like a few of the other threads will no doubt help me.

Congats! Think you'll like it. If you plan to build with the KT88/EL34 option be sure to check pg. 68 of the build guide. Also, Coco will e-mail you the plans for a head cab (if you haven't already got them from him). Looking forward to your build posts.

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Question: the Power Level pot should be a 1M-L. But the pot I have is a A1M, same as the Master Volume except it has the 2 extra pots on the back. Is the correct? Or the wrong pot?

The BOM says: Alpha 1M Audio with switch, that is what came with the kit. Maybe the schematic is wrong. Should it say 1M-A instead of 1M-L?

Don't know about the markings, however, the Power Level pot is twice as thick as a normal pot and should have 3 VRM connections on the aluminum section and 2 power connections on the black portion of the pot. There IS a 1M audio taper, but it goes in the Master Volume position next to the Power Level pot. Hope this clarifies things Also, look through the Tramp forum for build pictures.

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

The Layout sheet is your friend

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Well, I'm reasonably convinced that the BOM is correct and I have the right pot, and that the Layout is wrong. Reading up on audio taper pots, they are pretty typical for most amp dials and very appropriate for the power level.

Tonight, I installed all the hardware!

Also soldered the heater wires in... had to remove the fuse socket first.

Got the transformers installed and the PT wired.

Wired up the OT.

Question. The 10k resistor across pins 5 and 6 of the octal. I didn't receive a 2W resistor like the layout and instructions say, but I did receive a blue 10k 1/2W resistor. Is that sufficient? If not, I can get them from Amazon for a few bucks.

Would recommend the you get the power resistor (10K 2W) or PM Coco (Stephen) to send one. What does the one you have look like (maybe a pic) ?

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

I ordered a pack from Amazon. The 10k that came with it is small and blue. The ones in the Builders Guide picture are larger and grey like the 1k resistors near/on the octal terminal.

On page 45 of the builders guide, it says: Note: Make sure the cathode bias resistors for the power tubes are separated from the bypass
cap and slightly raised off the board as this resistor can emit some heat.

Which ones are the cathode bias resistors?

That would be the 570 and 750 Ohm 5W resistors next to the 1000uF 50V electrolytic. Find something to rest them on that you can slide out after you solder them into the eyelet board (to separate them from the board). I used a small piece of metal flashing EDIT: or a thin coin. They can get pretty warm H. Schepers

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Why is the MOSFET bolted down to the chassis? Why not just solder it onto the eyelet board?

Chassis acts as a heatsink. Don't forget the Sil-pad, it isolates the MOSFET electrically. The MOSFET installation is a PITA because of the method used to attach the center leg to the eyelet board; the second method mentioned looks a lot easier. If I ever build another Tramp, that's how I'm gonna do it. I was careful and used heat sinks when I soldered them into the board.

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Ah, right. Yeah the 2nd method mentioned is for a Head, which I am forced to use. Yes it looks easier.
Thanks!

sorry, the method I meant was the one where Coco says you can mount the MOSFET away from the board and run wires to the board instead of a direct connection to the MOSFET leads. I've only built the combo versions and heard the head version has some tight spots. Check out the pic in this post trinityamps.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5695

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"The only problem with being retired is you never get a day off"

Finished the eyelet board this weekend.