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Which is the best solder to use?
I've got three types:
60 / 40 .032"
62/36/02 .032"
SN 100C lead free .032" here are the specs:

http://www.aimsolder.com/SN100C.cfm

bubblebloy

Can't go wrong with 60/40.

I've read 62/36 has an ideal melting point. So it might be easier to use. Apparently it cools as soon as you remove heat so you aren't slowly cooking your fingertips while you wait for the solder to harden.

Lead free is good if you handle A LOT of solder and don't like to wash your hands.

I can't comment on their tonal properties. But I'm sure there's someone out there who will tell you otherwise.

I use AIM, SN 63/PB 37 Flux RA 3% .032" dia.

It works fine for me. I haven't tried the lead free type yet.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Can I use SN 100C?

Yes. I'm sure it would work. Jsut check to see at what temp it melts and be sure your iron can deliver it.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Hmmm,
Now I have to wonder.
I'm using Kester 66/44 .050?

my personal preference would be 62/36/02 .032 for extra conductivity but you also want be sure to have an iron that will be able to deliver the extra heat needed to melt it... if you look around you can find solder with an even higher silver content but again you will need an iron with the heat to melt it ( sorry didn't use spell check )



Bill

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Solder without lead has a higher metling point so you have to heat it up more and it is possible to burn you component but that is a issue with a sensitive stuff(IC, small diodes,SMD and etc.)

I tested the sn100c solder and I found that there was no problem in melting it (using a simple 30 watt iron) but I found that when the solder cooled it was "cloudy" in appearance and not bright and shiny as a good soldered joint should be.

bubbleboy

SN100C solder has a melting point 227C and has better conductivity then tin/lead solders see article: http://cs.pennnet.com/Articles/Article_ ... =lead-free

What's "solder"?

is this a good topic for the reference forum?

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I am planning on covering this topic in greater detail for the "Resource" Forum in my Selecting Basic Tools and Materials tutorial. For now though I would agree with Stephen's choice of a tin/lead 63/37 with a 3.3% RMA or RA (non-corrosive only) flux core. A diameter of .031" is fine for all of the joint types found in a typical guitar amp build, although this may be too large for most PCB work if you mod effects pedals, etc. This is the preferred solder choice of the military because of it's proven track record, low melting point, excellent wetting, and a very fast transition from solid to liquid to solid, relatively easy to clean, oh, and looks good! Unless your country requires the use of a lead free solder (or you ship product to a country that does), I would tend to shy away from the current lead free products. Substantially higher melting point, dull grey and pitted finish, special soldering iron and soldering tips, etc. To me it's a not ready for prime time product right now to satisfy the tree huggers of the world!

I have so much info to share on this subject (clean/no clean solders, flux choices, water soluble fluxes, cleaning methods, etc.) that can be covered in as great a length as this forum desires, but time is a very frustrating issue for me right now. For now I would suggest sticking with the military's choice, which after all created most or all of the 50's build technology that you are all building and enjoying today! I can also field specific questions if you ever want to PM me directly. I'm happy to help.

BTW: I've never worked with silver solder products so I can't comment on them without a little research.

Joe G

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moved. good info. I have tried the silver on a sample and found it workedfine. I continue to use the regular material.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I wanted to add a quick solder "factoid" that I just learned this past fall. This would affect anyone who is an occasional solderer at home like myself...

The flux in solder has an expiration date, as does liquid flux in those gallon jugs or flux pens used for rework!!! This came as a real shock to me and at first I thought it was a ploy by the solder and flux manufacturers to sell more solder and flux. After thinking about however, it explained why I could solder great at work but not so great at home. Solder which contains flux looses it's effectiveness in about two years, and flux in liquid form at about one year, I'm thinking because it's more exposed to the air and the "good stuff" must evaporate out of it. Something to think about if your soldering skills seem to have gone down "the tubes" over the years! Sorry

Joe G

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I don't know. I really like my 44 Kester

I didn't know about the 2 yr limit on solder, that's new.

Kester "44" is a good choice. The flux is a bit aggressive (highly active type RA) but supposedly the residue is non-corrosive and should be fine if left uncleaned. The flux residue should be removed if the end product will see warm/humid climates or environments as the flux residue can become reactivated and corrode the solder joints over time. I'm sure flux looses it's "potency" (it's ability to pre-clean the ares to be soldered) over time, but the 2 year expiration time frame may be a military requirement. If your solder flows and "wets" nicely, looks bright and shiny when done, I would say your good!

Joe G

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Brain sold separately...

Hey Joey,
I was wondering if you know of a cheaper, better solder to go with. And why (gotta know).
Just curious.
Thanks

I know what you mean... $25+ a pound for solder. Our government contracts specify 63/37, RMA flux solder (I would use the .031" size for our purposes) because of the very rapid transition from solid to liquid and back to solid. This ratio has to be the fastest recovering solder that I've used, and I actually watch it under a microscope while I'm soldering. We've been using Kester™ almost exclusively, but have also had Alpha Metals™ in the past. We buy it with your taxes so price is no object! When I get into work tomorrow I can check into it further.
Do you just need enough for one project or do you plan to stock up? Let me see what I can do...

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

I usually buy the pound rolls. So whatever you come up with. Faster recovery sounds great. Appreciate the info, I'll run with what you come up with.
Later