Page 68 - Triwatt Custom Lead Amp Builder's Guide
P. 68

a): I should be using the shielded wire which is the thick gray/black wire that you supplied about 3'
            of.  Does the shield braid from both lines go to the common tip lug on the lower jack while the
            core line goes to the individual tip lugs on both jacks?  I want to make sure I am interpreting the
            drawing correctly.
            b). The other end of the shield does NOT get connected to the tag strip at V1, correct?
            c). Each pair of input jacks gets only one resistor, correct?  Can I lace one lead of the resistor
            through both jacks for the connection?
            A: Take a look at the drawing of the input jacks.  That should help you out.   Use the shielded wire
            which is the heavy black wire.  The core goes to the hot. At the other end, the shield does NOT
            get connected to the tag strip at V1.

            Q: How do you wire up the impedance switch?  The layout shows 4 lugs on the switch while the
            actual switch has two concentric rings of lugs, 4 inner and 12 outer.
            A: The impedance switch inner & outer lugs are in pairs - 4 inside & 3 each for the outside.
            Connect the output jack to one of the inner lugs, and then connect each output tap from the
            transformer to the outside lugs that are 'paired' with that inner lug.  You can confirm the ‘pairs’ by
            checking the resistance between the inner lug and outer lug at different switch positions.

            Q: How are the three terminal tag strips next to V1 were supposed to be mounted, looked at the
            pictures on line and found they go under the V1 socket mounting nuts.
            A: Yes. They are part of the socket mounting. Use the 4-40 nuts supplied to fasten them down.

            Q: I assume you don't have to use both of the fiber/rubber washers when mounting the cliff jacks;
            I can get only one on, is this normal?
            A: Yes

            Q: Is there hardware provided for the grounding?  Screws, star washers, nuts, etc.?
            A: Yes, these should be in the kit.
            Note: The power grounds should go to the separate hole to mount the grounding points.

            Q: Is it easier to wire the pots up outside of the chassis on a cardboard with the pots spaced
            correctly, or can it be done easily in the chassis?
            A: You can wire them in place, it's not too difficult. It is recommended that you wire the input
            jacks outside of the chassis with the approximate spacing to fit the panel.

            TIP: It is easy to solder up the input jacks by putting them "inside out".  Use a set of jack locations
            to the right of the normal channel and mount the jacks in their final orientation, but mounted
            outside of the chassis with the mounting screw inside the chassis.  This keeps the orientation and
            spacing correct and provides a lot of room to solder the resistor, jumpers grounding wire and
            shielded wires.  Then, when done, remove the completed jacks, mount them correctly inside the
            chassis and tighten up the mounting screws and solder up the other end of the shielded wires to
            the tag strips at V1.




                                         TrinityAmps TRIWATT Builders Guide Ver. 2.31.docx
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